Drink
Both sides now
by Keith Stewart
Have you noticed how police descriptions of wanted characters don’t give you a mental image of what they look like? Is 1.47m short or tall? Is heavyset fat or broad? And why don’t they ever say someone is ginger, with freckles? Is that because freckled people are never wanted by the police?
We have similar problems with wine, where descriptions usually resemble a shopping list for a trip to a fruit and vege stall. This is understandable when you have thousands of wines made from the same variety, grown in the same place, made by the same stainless-steel technology. Describing Marlborough sauvignon blanc is like giving descriptions to police after you have been mob-hijacked by a class of uniformed Japanese schoolgirls: soft brown complexion, black hair, green uniform, lovely eyes, about so high and slender.
Therefore, it is of concern to those of us with the challenging job of describing New Zealand wine that the great hope of our salvation, pinot noir, has tended to a certain monosensuality. With the exception of the very best wines, there is a sameness about New Zealand pinot noir, but I guess that is true about all sorts of things. Being good doesn’t mean you are interesting, and although most New Zealand pinot noirs can be called good, interest is beginning to wane.
So it is with great enthusiasm that I report on two sensational new wines that have just been released. One is the first from the new generation of Mills family winemakers at Rippon, the 2003 Rippon Pinot Noir. The other is Escarpment 2003 Kupe, which, in keeping with its name is a seminal wine from New Zealand’s Mr Pinot Noir, Larry McKenna.
You could compile shopping lists of aroma and flavour for both, but let’s just say I would like to dance with the Rippon and go hunting in the bush with Kupe. Get the message?
TRY THIS
Rippon 2003 Pinot Noir
Harmony and elegant charm stand out above fruit and structure and other such mundane things in this wine. There is a sense of great beauty, detailed craft and spirit – not alcohol, but something altogether more ethereal and emotionally ravishing. This is the sort of wine that makes the back of your neck hum.
Available: Yes, briefly. For: $45.
…. AND THIS
Escarpment 2003 Kupe
Magnificent. A wine with power and sinuous grace, it stirs you like great symphonic music can, weaving spectacle and subtle intimacy with deft craft and brilliant timing. Visionary stuff that simultaneously challenges intellect and sensuality. One sip and you know why romantic women fall in love with dark, pensive strangers.
Available: Momentarily. For: $60.
RNZ’S ‘KIM HILL’ RECIPE
Ti’a Moana Tuna by Laurie Black
2cm-thick, round slice of fresh pineapple, skin and core removed; 1/2 cup cider vinegar infused overnight with 1 split vanilla bean; 2 tbsp finely chopped coriander stems plus a few leaves; 1 small garlic clove, minced; 1/4 tsp finely chopped mild chilli; 4 tsp extra virgin olive oil; salt to taste; 4 x 150g slices yellowfin or big eye tuna loin, preferably from the narrower end of the loin so that the slices are thick; 2 tbsp black peppercorns, roughly crushed using a mortar and pestle; olive oil for cooking; lime wedges to serve
Chop the pineapple into small pieces and place in a non-reactive mixing bowl. Stir in 2 teaspoons of the vanilla vinegar, setting the remainder aside for other recipes. Stir the coriander, garlic, chilli and extra virgin olive oil into the pineapple mixture. Season with a little salt and set aside. Spread the pepper on a small plate and roll the sides of each slice of tuna in the pepper to coat. Add a little olive oil to a hot cast-iron pan and add the tuna. Sear on each side for about 30 seconds, then brown the peppered sides for about another 60 seconds. Spoon some pineapple salsa onto each dinner plate then place a piece of peppered tuna on top. Serve immediately with lime wedges to squeeze over. Serves 4.
