Food
Golden opportunities
by Martin Bosley
Made from ground cornmeal, polenta is a versatile ingredient that can be used in both savoury and sweet dishes.
On drizzly winter days, when I find myself wanting to eat something comforting, the idea of soft, golden polenta, covered in melted parmesan cheese and sitting under some braised meat, is immediately consoling. Originally a peasant food, polenta is one of the mainstays of the cuisine of Northern Italy, where it is more popular than pasta.
Polenta is made from ground yellow cornmeal – the finer the grind, the smoother the result. I was initially taught that polenta had to be stirred continuously during cooking, and only ever in one direction – clockwise. I used to think it was a dull and unimaginative starch until I discovered the secret to great polenta is long cooking, which allows the flavours to develop fully and the texture to become smooth and creamy.
Once cooked, polenta can be served straight from the pot, or chilled and cut into shapes such as triangles or rounds. These can be grilled or pan-fried, resulting in a golden crust and an appealingly soft interior. To cook polenta successfully, ensure that a crust has formed before you turn it over; otherwise the polenta will collapse, leaving the crust behind.
This cake, ideal for a dignified afternoon tea, demonstrates polenta’s versatility as an ingredient.
LEMON POLENTA CAKE WITH POACHED RHUBARB
200g sugar
125g unsalted butter
3 tbsp cream
3 tbsp cream cheese
2 eggs
185g self-rising flour
1 tsp baking powder
zest and juice of 2 lemons
50g polenta
icing sugar for dusting
Preheat the oven to 180˚C. Butter and line a 23cm springform tin with baking paper. Cream the sugar and butter until pale, light and fluffy, then add the cream and cream cheese. Mix well, then add the eggs, one at a time, beating between each addition. Sieve the flour and baking powder into the mixture, then carefully fold it through, keeping the texture light and airy. Add the lemon zest, juice and the polenta. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin. Bake for 30 minutes or until the centre is cooked and the top is golden. Remove from the oven and turn the cake out onto a wire rack to cool. Place the cake on a serving plate and dust with icing sugar. Serve with poached rhubarb and crème frâiche or sour cream. Drizzle a little rhubarb syrup over the cake.
POACHED RHUBARB
600g rhubarb
1 lemon
175g sugar
Trim off the rhubarb leaves, then use a small knife to pull away the stringy outside skin. Cut the stalks into 3cm lengths, then place in a deep saucepan. Grate the zest from the lemon and add to the pan. Squeeze the juice from the lemon, then add to the rhubarb with the sugar. Place the pan over a medium heat and cook until the sugar is dissolved – about 15 minutes. (The rhubarb should have released a lot of its juices.) Carefully lift the stalks from the syrup and place in a container. Bring the syrup to a simmer and cook for 4 minutes or until lightly thickened, then allow to cool. Pour the syrup over the cold rhubarb. Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
Serves 8.
POLENTA DOES NOT REQUIRE continuous stirring for the two hours that it takes to cook, but just needs to be checked occasionally. I have read of a method that involves cooking polenta in a double boiler, but I have not tried it.
POLENTA
BASE RECIPE
2 litres chicken stock or water
350g polenta
150g unsalted butter
200g parmesan cheese, grated
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring the stock or water to a rapid boil in a deep saucepan. Pour in the polenta in a thin stream, whisking continuously until blended. Reduce the heat to a bare simmer, then cover with a lid. Cook for at least 45 minutes – 2 hours is better. Check the polenta frequently, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Do not worry if a skin forms around the saucepan, as it is easily washed off. Once the polenta is thick and creamy and is starting to come away from the sides of the pan, stir in the butter and parmesan. Season lightly with salt and pepper, then spread the polenta evenly over an oiled, shallow baking tray. Cover with plastic wrap, then refrigerate until set. Once the polenta is completely cold, cut it into shapes and either grill or shallow-fry the pieces until crisp and golden. “Wet” polenta can also be served straight from the saucepan. This is especially delicious under casseroles.
Makes enough for 6-8 people.
THE SOFFRITTO TAKES SOME time to cook, but it is worth the effort. Once made, it can be used on many dishes, including meats.
CRISP POLENTA WITH CLAMS SOFFRITTO
SOFFRITTO
500g onions
100ml olive oil
salt
6 tomatoes, ripe
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
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