Many cultures view pilchards as an ingredient to cherish, so why don't we?
For the time of year the tomatoes are gorgeous, and I am still eating them for breakfast. I have stopped eating outdoors in the early morning sun by the kitchen door, and moved inside where I’m closer to the warmth of the heat pump. My first thoughts on a chilly morning usually involve warm food, so the shift in where I eat has also meant a change in what I eat; I am now more likely to cook the tomatoes in a sort of buttery stew than slice them thickly straight onto my toast.
The red capsicums caught my attention this week, their bright colour almost alarming among the greens and browns of cabbages, mushrooms and pumpkins at the market. The smoky flavour of grilled capsicum lends weight to the robust flavour of some juicy, crispy-skinned pilchards. People are surprised by the exceptional taste of these marvellous little fish. Fabulous grilled over a barbecue or marinated in olive oil and lemon juice, pilchards are something I thoroughly enjoy.
It amazes me that we largely regard pilchards as good for fishing bait or cat food; in so many other cultures, especially in Europe, these fish are a celebrated ingredient. We are fortunate to have these plump and tasty fish, which are available from fish retailers. This small brilliantly coloured relative of the sardine is common around the coast, and even gets the green tick of sustainable seafood we can eat without feeling guilty.
The small bones are part and parcel of eating them, as they soften when cooked, making them edible. Their dark, mysterious and oil-rich flavour sits well with the sweetness of roasted capsicums blended into a Mediterranean-type sauce, thickened with almonds and sharpened with a splash of red wine vinegar. It’s an ideal autumn salad that could be served as a light lunch or easy first course.
Grilled Pilchards with Romesco Sauce
8 pilchards
sea salt
olive oil
SAUCE
2 red capsicums
2 tbsp blanched almonds
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tbsp olive oil
salt and pepper
2 large spring onions
Remove the fish scales using the back of a knife, then slit along the belly and scrape out the innards. Rinse under cold running water, pat dry and place on a chopping board. Trim and square off the ends of the fish. Sprinkle the skin with a little sea salt, then set aside for 30 minutes. Heat a frying pan over a high heat, brush the fish with olive oil and quickly fry skin-side down for 2 minutes or until the skin is crisp. Remove from the pan and place on a warm plate.
For the sauce, preheat the grill. Place the capsicums in a roasting dish and grill until the skin blackens. Remove from the heat and wrap them in newspaper. Leave for 30 minutes, then peel off the skins and remove the seeds. Set aside. Gently toast the almonds under the grill until light golden. Blend the capsicums, almonds, vinegar and oil in a food processor until smooth. Check for salt and pepper. Trim the spring onions and then cut into fine shreds. Pour the sauce over the fish and sprinkle with spring onion.
Serves 4.
I try always to have a block of feta in my fridge. Rarely served as part of a cheeseboard, this salty cheese will complement many dishes. With this cheese on hand, a quick autumn salad is never very far away: toss cubes of feta through warm lentils or serve with roasted beetroot. Try it drizzled with olive oil and baked with aubergine, or break into sharp chunks and stir through a golden omelette and sprinkle with snipped
dill.
Roast Capsicum and Feta Salad with Beetroot and Watercress
2 large beetroot
2 red capsicums
400g feta cheese
a handful of watercress leaves
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 150°C. Wash the beetroot and wrap in aluminium foil. Place in a roasting pan and bake for 2 hours until the flesh is tender. Remove from the oven and cool. Peel off the skin then cut the beetroot into thick pieces and place in a bowl. Quarter the capsicums lengthways then seed. Press the pieces skin-side up onto a baking tray, then place under a hot grill until they are scorched and blistered. Remove from the heat and cover with plastic wrap for 20 minutes. Peel the skin from the flesh. Roughly tear the flesh into pieces and mix with the beetroot. Cut the cheese into small chunks and mix with the beetroot. Toss with the watercress leaves and drizzle with the oil and red wine vinegar. Add a touch of ground pepper. Don’t be tempted to add salt; the cheese is salty enough.
Serves 2.
Soft mozzarella and bocconcini are available in pottles of brine at most supermarkets, so a trip to the deli is unnecessary. The anchovies are optional, but they work well here.
Roast Tomatoes with Anchovies and Mozzarella
4 large ripe tomatoes
extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic
a ball of fresh mozzarella
8 anchovy fillets
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large bunch of rocket
2 tbsp chopped chives
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Core the tomatoes and slice them in half around the equator. Place them cut-side up in a roasting dish, then pour a little oil over the top. Cook until the tops begin to blacken. Crush the garlic cloves and sprinkle over the tomatoes. Slice the mozzarella thickly and pile on top of the tomatoes. Finely chop the anchovies and sprinkle over the top of the cheese. Drizzle with oil, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Return to the oven and cook until the cheese is melted and bubbling – about 10 minutes. Toss the rocket leaves in olive oil and season with salt only. Arrange the leaves in piles on individual plates, then top with the tomatoes and a sprinkling of chives. Serve with crusty bread.
Enough for 2.