The arrival of spring lamb is a good excuse for a roast.
Spring has arrived, and my market basket reflects this. Bright leafy greens, ice-white fennel, bags of tomatoes and young root vegetables are being turned into soft risottos, simple salads and bold accompaniments for crispy-skinned roasts.
I have been enjoying the spring lamb – the tactile nature of holding a slightly charred chop between my fingers and nibbling away at the crusty edges is deeply satisfying. I have fallen in love with a particular cut, the shoulder. Sweet, flavoursome and a little fatty, it can be turned into creamy stews, chargrilled on a barbecue, gently braised with intriguingly aromatic spices or enjoyed as a Sunday roast.
Every now and again it’s good to roast a joint of meat so slowly that the cooking aromas fill the house and the meat becomes so soft it can be pulled apart with a spoon. The juices won’t run pink, but the flavour contained within the mahogany-hued pan liquor more than makes up for it. You could cook the lamb with the bone in, but it’s easier to handle without. The nutty flavour of brown rice is a great accompaniment to something with such complex flavours.
Slow-Cooked Shoulder of Lamb, Brown-Rice Pilaf with Broccoli
1 shoulder of lamb, boned
3 stems of rosemary
3 garlic cloves
1 cup olive oil
2 carrots
2 celery stalks
1 leek
1 medium onion
2 x 400g tins of whole peeled tomatoes
1 cup white wine
500ml chicken stock
salt and pepper
Three days before you want to cook the lamb, make a series of small cuts in the meat with the tip of a sharp knife. Strip the leaves from the rosemary stems and finely slice the garlic. Place the meat in a large container, then stud with rosemary and garlic. Pour over the oil, cover and marinate in the fridge.
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the meat in a casserole dish large enough to take all the vegetables. Roast the lamb in the oven for 20 minutes, then turn the heat down to 160°C and remove the casserole from the oven. Cut the carrots, celery and leek into 3cm pieces and tuck them around the meat. Chop the onion in half and add to the dish. Pour the tomatoes, wine and stock over the lamb, cover with a piece of greaseproof paper and a close-fitting lid and return the dish to the oven. Cook slowly for 3 hours. Remove the dish from the oven and carefully lift the lamb out and place on a serving dish. Season it with salt and pepper. Strain the cooking juices into a small saucepan and discard the vegetables. Bring the juices to a simmer over a medium heat, then cook until the liquid has reduced and thickened. Carve the meat into thick slices and place on a serving platter. Pour the cooking juices over the top and serve.
Brown-Rice Pilaf with Broccoli
300g brown rice
salt and pepper
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 medium onion
½ cinnamon stick
500ml chicken stock
1 head of broccoli
a handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves
juice of ½ a lemon
Rinse the rice in 3 changes of cold water until the water is no longer cloudy, then cover with fresh water and add a good pinch of salt. This will help to soften the outer husk. Melt the butter in a saucepan and finely chop the onion. Add the onion and the cinnamon stick and cook until the onion is translucent. Drain the rice and add to the onion. Add the stock and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer, cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook for 8 minutes. Cut the broccoli into florets and add into the rice. Cook for 8 minutes, then season with salt and pepper. Chop the parsley and stir it into the rice. Add a squeeze of lemon juice, then serve.
Serves 4.
Young radishes are surprisingly good when cooked and they add a touch of soft pink to the bright colours of other vegetables. Young fennel bulb has a more subtle aniseed flavour than its older version. As asparagus, broad beans and peas come into season they can be included in the mix – they will bring a splendid vibrancy. Lamb shoulder is more economical than lamb racks, and could easily replace them here. You’ll need to adjust the cooking time to an hour.
Spring Lamb with Couscous and Young Vegetables
2 racks of lamb (about 500g)
3 garlic cloves
olive oil
2 stems of rosemary
½ tsp ground cumin
a pinch of cinnamon powder
grated zest of 1 lemon
100g fine couscous
200ml boiling water
salt and pepper
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the meat skin-side up in a roasting pan. Chop the garlic and mix with a small amount of olive oil in a small bowl. Strip the leaves from the rosemary and loosely chop them, then add to the oil with the cumin, cinnamon and lemon zest. Rub the marinade all over the lamb. Roast in a preheated oven for 18-20 minutes until the skin is crisp and golden brown and the juices run pink when pierced with a sharp knife. Remove the meat from the oven and allow it to rest for 20 minutes. Place the couscous in a bowl and pour over the boiling water. Leave for 10 minutes before fluffing up with a fork. Season generously with salt and pepper, then stir in a little olive oil before folding the cooked vegetables through the couscous. Spoon onto warm plates, then carve the lamb racks between the bones and serve.
For the vegetables
12 baby carrots
4 small beetroot
4 small radishes
2 small fennel bulbs
400g new potatoes
½ cup white wine
300ml chicken stock
sea salt and pepper
2 tbsp chopped mint leaves
Wash and trim the carrots. Do the same with the beetroot and radishes, removing their leaves, then cut into quarters. Trim the fennel bulbs of any loose fronds and cut into thin slices. Put the potatoes into a deep saucepan with the wine and stock. Simmer for 15 minutes, then add the vegetables, sprinkle with a little sea salt and cover with a lid. Cook until all the vegetables are tender and the liquid has reduced. Sprinkle with chopped mint and check the seasoning.
Serves 4.