American fare: all you can eat

By Karl du Fresne In Food

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24th January, 2013
The roadside billboards for the Big Texan Steak Ranch began appearing as we headed east out of Tucumcari, New Mexico. “Free 72-ounce steaks”, they promised. This called for further investigation. Many Americans seem to regard food simply as fuel. They enjoy the trappings and social rituals associated with eating, yet seem largely indifferent to what they put in their mouths. This explains why American restaurants, especially the ubiquitous chains, offer endless variations of the same limited and tiresome culinary repertoire. ...

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