Baker’s kiss

Experience the bliss of a slice of freshly baked homemade bread.

With so many commercial breads being fluffy yet lifeless, it is tremendously satisfying to make your own bread. It is also easier than most imagine. I think the time it takes puts people off, but really, the dough does all the work. After assembling ingredients, you only spend about 30 minutes making the bread; the rest is leaving it to prove.

I prefer to use fresh yeast, but you can substitute dried granules, using half the quantity of dried yeast to fresh. One tablespoon of dried yeast leavens 1kg of flour – always dissolve it in water first. Fresh yeast can be added directly to the flour.

Handmade bread has a sweetness to it and this simple recipe will produce charmingly seductive and tender rolls. Using strong or unbleached flour can help produce well-aerated rolls. Serve with butter, olive oil or, as here, with mustard and chive butter and flaked smoked salmon.

Simple Bread Rolls

500ml water

30g salt

Preheat the oven to 200?C with a shallow dish of water in the bottom – the steam helps produce a nice crust. Mix the water and yeast together in a bowl and place in a warm place for 15-20 minutes. In a separate bowl mix the flour, sugar and salt. Combine the two sets of ingredients together, and using the dough hook, mix on low speed until the dough is smooth and starts to leave the sides of the bowl. It will look quite wet. Place in a warm place to prove and double in volume for about 2 hours. Turn the dough onto the bench and knock back gently using the palms of your hands. Divide the mixture into 100g balls and using a cupped hand form into smooth rolls. Place onto a greased tray and cover with cling film. Leave the tray in a warm place to prove again for 20-30 minutes. Dust the tops of the rolls with flour and cut the top of each with a sharp knife. Cook for 15-20 minutes. When done, the bottom should sound hollow when tapped.

THIS BUTTER’S TERRIFIC on grilled meat or fish and will keep in the freezer for months. Makes 8-10 buns or two loaves.

Mustard and Chive Butter

200g unsalted butter

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Soften the butter and add the mustard and lemon zest. Mix with a wooden spoon until smooth. Add the chives and season to taste with the salt and pepper.

BRIOCHE IS WONDERFULLY delicate and light, despite its rich butter and eggs – truly great brioche leaves no traces on your fingers as you eat. I use it for a number of dishes and it makes the best bread and butter pudding ever. Sprinkle the dough with chunks of chocolate before forming the loaf. Serve for afternoon tea with the chocolate warm and soft inside. For a savoury dish, I stud the dough with garlicky sausages before baking. Served with grilled mushrooms, spinach, blue cheese and prosciutto, it makes a great lunch dish. Serves 10.

Brioche

30g fresh yeast

1 egg, beaten, to glaze the bread

Heat the oven to 200?C. Into a mixer bowl place the yeast, warm milk, sugar and salt. Beat lightly on a low speed, with the dough hook. Add the flour and eggs and knead for about 10 minutes until smooth and elastic. Add the softened butter a little at a time. Once all the butter is added, mix for a further 15 minutes. Cover the bowl with a wet tea towel, and leave for 2 hours to double in volume. Place the dough onto a floured bench and knock it back with the fingertips, flipping it over. Shape into a large ball and divide it in two. Place each portion of dough into greased and floured bread tins. Brush the top of the loaves with the beaten egg. Place the pans in a warm place for the dough to prove again, for about 20 minutes. Snip the tops of the loaves with scissors. Bake for 45 minutes. When cooked, remove from the tins immediately and cool on a wire rack.

FANTASTIC WITH GOAT’S CHEESE, serve this with fresh dates drizzled with honey.

Makes 2 loaves.

Fruit Bread

100g dried figs

1 egg, beaten

Heat the oven to 200?C. Roughly chop the figs and prunes and add the raisins. Mix the hot water with the honey and lemon zest and pour it over the fruit. In a bowl combine the yeast with the sugar, water and salt. Add the egg and flour and make a smooth dough using the dough hook on low speed for about 15 minutes. Cover the bowl with a damp tea towel to prove the dough for 1 hour. Drain the fruit, reserving the liquid. Stir the cinnamon into the fruit and knead it into the dough. Tip the dough onto a floured bench, shape it into loaves, and place on a greased and floured baking tray. Place somewhere warm to prove again for 20 minutes. Mix a little leftover syrup with the beaten egg and brush it on top of the loaves. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove the bread from the oven, brush again with the syrup, lower the temperature to 180?C and return to the oven for a further 25 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

Serves 8-10.