Berries galore

Quinces, windfall apples and a surfeit of berries mark the arrival of autumn's cooler days.

Daylight saving ended and with it came the gift of a small jar of my mother-in-law’s spiced chutney, complete with the intimidating instruction not to open it for another seven years, so incendiary is the amount of preserved crystallised ginger within its fragile glass container.

The first of the quinces also arrived in the kitchen last week, fragrant, voluptuous and generous. The soft down on the skin protects the young quince and needs to be wiped off before the fruit is cooked and turned into a thick paste to serve with cheese. We may also stir it into the cooking juices from a roast leg of pork to make a sauce.

In the same week, a box of windfall crab apples arrived from our favourite Hawke’s Bay grower, Clyde Potter. They have been made into a glowing, amber-coloured and softly perfumed jelly that we will serve alongside thinly sliced roast ham. With all this preserving taking place, it’s a reminder that winter is well and truly on its way.

Before the cold, dormant days fully arrive I want to make the most of the last summer produce. There is still an excellent range of berries in the market, and the richness of a bowlful of glorious blackberries, raspberries and boysenberries served with a dollop of whipped cream is a traditional dessert at home. With the darker evenings, it can be made a little more romantic if eaten in the ­flattering glow of candlelight.

I enjoy this time of year, for I know my food is about to become more ­substantial, with earthier, deeper flavours and stickier textures. Crumbles, tarts and pies are bound to feature, but I am not quite ready to start spending too much time in the kitchen making them. Until then, these dessert recipes are the perfect compromise.

I love blackberries served under a ­blanket of warm custard. A dessert that has a foot in each season, it is capable of satisfying both heart and soul. Given a bit of extra love, the same dessert can be transformed into a crème brûlée, and when you crack through that sugary crust it will change your perception of what simple home cooking can be. The bold sharpness of the berries is in pleasant contrast to the soothing richness of the brûlée.

Blackberry Crème Brûlèe

600ml cream

4 tbsp sugar for caramelising the tops of the custards

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Heat the cream with the orange zest, then simmer for 3 minutes to allow the flavour to infuse. Remove from the heat and set aside for 20 minutes. Using a whisk, beat together the egg yolks and first measure of caster sugar until pale and creamy. Strain in the hot cream and return the custard to a clean saucepan on a low heat. Using a wooden spoon, stir continuously until the custard starts to thicken, whisking quickly when it does. This should take about 10-15 minutes. Once the custard has an almost-set quality, remove it from the heat.

Divide the blackberries between four 6cm diameter ramekins and pour in the custard. Place the ramekins in a baking dish with enough water to come halfway up the sides. Place the dish in the oven and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the ramekins from the oven and refrigerate for at least an hour before serving. Sprinkle the second measure of sugar in an even layer over the surface of the custards and spray with a little water. Place the ramekins under a grill or use a handheld kitchen blowtorch to melt the sugar until it has caramelised to a rich golden brown.

Makes 4.

I make no apologies for using prepared custard from the supermarket for this recipe – I want something quick and convenient. You don’t need an ice-cream machine for this recipe.

Blackberry Ice-Cream Ripple

200g blackberries

250ml cream

Rinse the blackberries and place in a saucepan with the sugar and a splash of cold water. Bring slowly to the boil. Remove from the heat once the sugar has dissolved. Set aside to cool completely. Pour the custard into a bowl and stir in the cream. Pour the mixture into a plastic container and place in the freezer. Every couple of hours remove the container from the freezer and beating the ice-cream with a wire whisk. As it begins to harden, stir in the blackberry compote to create a ripple effect. Leave in the freezer overnight. Before serving, allow it to soften for 30 minutes. To serve, pour a little extra blackberry syrup over the top.

If you have an ice-cream machine, pour in the custard and churn until frozen. When the custard is almost frozen, scoop it into the chilled container. Pour in the blackberry compote and stir into the custard to give a marbled effect, but do not over-stir. Place the mixture in the freezer and leave overnight.

Makes enough for 8.

This SHARP-TASTING compote is good served with roasted duck breasts. It may also be used in a pie made with a traditional lard pastry, soft and crumbling. Serve it hot from the oven and accompanied by nothing more than runny cream.

Apple and Blackberry Compote with Yoghurt

4 large cooking apples

A little icing sugar

Peel, core and quarter the apples. Slice them thickly, place in a saucepan and sprinkle with the sugar and spices. Add a splash of cold water and place the saucepan over a low heat. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until the apples are soft. Crush lightly with a fork, then stir in the blackberries. Cook for 3 minutes, then transfer the fruit to a bowl. Cool before serving with a generous dollop of yoghurt and a dusting of icing sugar.

Feeds 2.