In these times of financial gloom, seek solace in comfort food that's economical and good for the soul.
All this news of impending economic doom has made me feel a little parsimonious, but rather than switching to inferior ingredients, I’ve opted to use cheaper ones.
Remembering how our eating habits changed after the ’87 stockmarket crash, when we suddenly wanted foods to help ease our pain and provide comfort, I thought about the dishes that have always given me this feeling. Gnocchi is satisfying to make and offers a world of variations; pork is a succulent, tasty and economical yet quality meat; and a little chocolate in any form is always good for the soul. I have used spinach in two of the recipes, but that’s because it’s one of those leafy greens that happily goes with anything. These dishes can be served individually or as part of a three-course meal.
Roasted Pork Fillet with Buttered Spinach and Parmesan Baked Onions
2 tsp olive oil
2 x 400g pork fillets
salt and freshly ground black pepper
50g fresh root ginger
50g butter
a large bunch of spinach, washed
Preheat the oven to 200?C. Put an ovenproof pan over a high heat, then add the oil, which will heat up instantly. Carefully lower the pork fillets into the pan, then brown on all sides, seasoning each browned side. Cut the ginger into matchsticks, then add to the pan. Place the pan in the oven, then cook for 10-12 minutes or a little longer if you like your meat well-done. Transfer the pork to a suitable plate to keep warm, then cover with tinfoil. Put the pan back over a moderate heat, then add the butter and spinach leaves, allowing the leaves to wilt slowly into the butter. Stir occasionally to loosen any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Cut the pork into 2cm slices, then place on warm serving plates with the spinach at the side. Serve with parmesan baked onions.
Serves 4-6.
Intrigued by British chef Nigel Slater’s recipe for these onions, and having nothing better to do one evening, I decided to give them a go. A friend dropped by as I was beginning the pro-cess, so I gave him some to take home for his supper. The next day, I asked what he thought, but I don’t think he was quite as enamoured with them as I was. Slater suggests eating them with roast beef or chicken, but they are just as good with pork. I have increased the amount of cream and added fresh thyme. Fergus Henderson, another British chef, also has a fascination with cooked whole onions, referring to them as “orbs of joy” …
Parmesan Baked Onions
4 medium onions
600ml cream
2 tbsp thyme leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
a handful of grated parmesan
Preheat the oven to 180?C. Peel the onions, then bring them to the boil in a deep saucepan of water. Simmer them for 25 minutes or until tender, then use a draining spoon to remove them from the saucepan. Slice the onions from root to tip and place them cut-side down in an ovenproof dish. Pour the cream over the top, then season with salt, pepper and parmesan. Bake for 25-30 minutes until golden and bubbling.
Serves 4.
A thick piece of Hungarian-style gypsy bacon, which I’d bought from the Gipsy Kitchen deli in Strathmore, needed using up. With its smoky paprika taste, the bacon seemed better suited to a light lunch of gnocchi and tomatoes. Replace the spinach with sage if you have any.
Mustard Gnocchi with Gypsy Bacon, Spinach and Tomatoes
675g floury potatoes such as Agria
salt
150g plain flour
2 tbsp dijon mustard
1 egg, beaten
olive oil
freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 200?C. Wash the potatoes and place them on a baking tray. Bake for 1 hour or until tender, then remove from the oven. Once they are cool enough to handle, cut them in half, scoop out the flesh, then mash in a warm bowl. Tip the mash onto the bench, then use your fingers to slowly work in the salt, flour, mustard and egg until a dough forms. Divide the dough into 4 small balls, then roll each ball out to form a long skinny rope about 2cm thick. Cut into 1cm pieces.
Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of salted water to a rapid boil and have a bowl of iced water standing by. Drop small batches of gnocchi into the water, then cook until they float to the surface – about 2-3 minutes. Remove them with a draining spoon, then drop into the iced water. When all the gnocchi are cooked, drain well and toss in a bowl with a generous amount of olive oil and salt and pepper.
To finish
2 tbsp unsalted butter
4 thick slices of gypsy bacon or pancetta
2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
8 tomatoes, halved and seeded
12 spinach leaves or 6 sage leaves, shredded
4 tbsp grated parmesan cheese
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat a frying pan over a high heat, then add the butter. Chop the bacon into small chunks, then fry until golden brown. Add the garlic and tomato to the pan, then cook for 3-5 minutes. Add the spinach or sage leaves and the cooked gnocchi. Gently toss. Sprinkle the parmesan cheese over the top and as it melts, season with salt and pepper. Serve in warmed bowls.
Serves 4.
These are elegant and charming little custards that can satisfy a chocolate craving without appearing to be indulgent. I use those packaged brandy snaps from the supermarket to make a pretty decoration.
Chocolate and Hazelnut Pots of Cream with Brandy Snaps
1 cup cream
125g dark chocolate
2 tbsp Nutella
2 large egg yolks
2 tbsp sugar
whipped cream to serve
4 brandy snaps, broken up, to garnish
Preheat the oven to 140?C. Warm the cream in a saucepan until it starts to simmer, then add the chocolate, stirring with a wooden spoon until the chocolate melts. Remove the saucepan from the heat, then gently stir in the Nutella until the mixture is smooth.
In a separate bowl, beat the yolks and sugar until thick and creamy – about 5 minutes. Carefully pour in the chocolate mix, then blend thoroughly. Pour the mixture into 4 little ovenproof pots or ramekins. Put the pots into a deep baking dish, then place on the lower rack of the oven. Pour enough hot water into the baking dish to come halfway up the sides of the pots. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until slightly puffed up and just set at the edges. They should still be soft.
Remove the pots from the baking dish, then transfer to the fridge for several hours. Serve with a spoonful of whipped cream and a garnish of brandy-snap pieces.
Serves 4.