These two fish dishes have had a major influence on me and my cooking.
For a number of reasons, I have recently been reflecting on my culinary past, and on dishes that have had a major influence on my cooking or appeared at key moments in my life. In terms of lightness and simplicity, the bourride fish soup recipe marked a turning point in my cookery, and I still refer to it now when I think my food might be too complicated. The cedar-planked salmon appeared at a time of sadness and although the recipe was never mine to begin with, it has been widely attributed to me. It has always brought great joy to those who eat it.
Bourride is a classic Mediterranean fish soup/stew in the style of bouillabaisse, but without the saffron and the dozen varieties of fish that are normally required but unobtainable in New Zealand. Just use any available firm white fish, such as groper or monkfish. A long list of ingredients can be offputting, but once they’re assembled, this soup is easy to make. I usually cook my vegetables a couple of days ahead, so all that’s required is to reheat them with the fish and then thicken the soup.
Bourride
4 thick slices of baguette
4 tbsp olive oil
1 leek, white only, sliced thinly
1 onion, sliced thinly
1 carrot, sliced thinly
2 garlic cloves, sliced
2 tbsp fresh parsley, fennel and thyme,
coarsely chopped
2-3 strips orange peel
1 bay leaf
500g assorted fish, cut into 3cm cubes
300ml water
200ml vermouth
5 egg yolks
100ml cream
2 tsp mayonnaise or aioli (garlic
mayonnaise)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oven to 180?C, and brush the baguette slices using 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Bake the bread until golden brown and crusty – about 7 minutes. Place a piece of baked baguette in the bottom of 4 individual bowls. In a deep pot heat the remaining olive oil and add the leek, onion, carrot, garlic, herbs, peel and bay leaf. Sauté until the vegetables become soft, shiny and aromatic.
Arrange the pieces of fish over the vegetables. Pour the water and vermouth over the top and bring to a lazy simmer. Cook for 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, divide the fish among the 4 bowls. Remove the pot from the heat.
Whisk the egg yolks with the cream and mayonnaise and pour it into the still-hot liquid. Return the pot to a low heat and whisk until the mixture is thick. Do not boil or you will scramble the eggs. Season with salt and pepper to taste and pour generous ladles of vegetables and broth over the fish. Serve immediately.
Serves 4.
PEOPLE WHO NORMALLY LOATHE salmon fall in love with this dish. Film stars have swooned over it, with one even seizing the serving plate and rushing around to offer some to other diners! Buy the cedar planks from a timber merchant and tell them how you want the wood cut up. I reckon the amount of cedar I’ve bought in the past 10 years would be enough to build a rather nice, but small cottage. The only caveat? You need to cook this recipe on a barbecue.
Cedar-Planked Salmon with Celeriac and Apple Remoulade
sea salt
4 pieces of dressed untreated cedar plank,
14cm x 7cm
4 x 100g pieces salmon fillet
1 tsp soft brown sugar
1 tsp dry mustard powder
garnish: 50g melted butter, a squeeze of
lemon juice and 2 tbsp chopped chives or
thyme leaves
Lightly sprinkle some sea salt over the pieces of cedar. Place a piece of salmon on top of each one, trimming the fillets if necessary to fit the planks. Check the fish for small bones, then use small pliers or tweezers to gently remove them. Lightly season the salmon with sea salt. It is important to do the next step in order. First, rub the soft brown sugar onto the top of the fillet, and then sieve the mustard powder over it. It doesn’t matter if any sugar or mustard powder ends up on the wood, as they will caramelise around the salmon and become part of the delicious juices.
Place the planks on top of the grill bars of the barbecue and cover them with an upturned metal container. I use an old roasting pan. The wood need only smoulder and not burst into flames. Check the salmon after 5 minutes. It is cooked when small white beads of cooked protein form on the outside. Melt the butter and mix with a squeeze of lemon juice and the chopped chives or fresh thyme leaves. When the fish is ready to serve, pour some of this mixture over the top.
Serves 4.
Celeriac and Apple Remoulade
200ml mayonnaise
1½ tsp grain mustard
grated zest and juice of ½ lemon
1 medium celeriac
1 granny smith apple
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Mix the mayonnaise, mustard, lemon zest and juice. Slice the ends off the celeriac and use a sharp knife to peel away the thick skin. Split the celeriac in half lengthways. Place each half flat side down on a chopping board and cut into very fine semi-circular slices. Slice these into matchsticks. Add to the dressing. Peel the apple and remove the 2 cheeks from either side of the core. Repeat as for the celeriac and also add to the dressing. Season to taste with the salt and pepper and mix well. Spoon the salad onto 4 individual plates. Serve a piece of salmon alongside, preferably on the smoking plank.
Serves 4.