Look to nourishing lentils or dried pasta for a quick meal to lift your spirits on a cold night.
These early morning starts in the dark are getting to me,
and as soon as I begin my day I can’t wait to get home. The clear, chilly evenings and low temperatures we have been experiencing have brought on a need for some invigorating and warming dishes that can be
eaten off a plate on my lap while sitting in front of the fire.
This week I quickly pan-fried some groper fillets, then threw in some thinly sliced jerusalem artichokes before finishing the cooking in the oven. Once the fish was cooked, I wilted some spinach leaves in the same pan and dinner was served in 20 minutes. There was no sauce, just the pan juices spooned over the fish.
The virtues of dried pasta should not be ignored, and although my wife has accused me in the past of being a “pasta wimp” because of my limited appetite for all things farinaceous, I am pulled irresistibly towards it.
Lurking in my kitchen cupboard are packets of spaghetti, penne and pappardelle, ready to provide a cheap and humble meal when tossed through the
kind of dark ragù that is barely thick enough to cling to the pasta. As pleasing as the idea is, a simpler dish is to quickly fry some mushrooms with a clove or two of crushed garlic and some olive oil, and to let the pasta soak up the warm mushroom juices.
Midweek I rely on one of my favourite ingredients to provide a quick meal that always lifts my spirits, the humble lentil. I use “de Puy” lentils, the tiny dark-green dried legume that is grown in the Auvergne, as they have the best flavour and texture. Requiring no overnight soaking, lentils are quick to cook, and I put them on as soon as I walk in the door. By the time I have the fire going, they are done, ready to be dressed with fresh herbs and a splash of red wine vinaigrette.
This is the kind of food that warms the soul, and knowing what I will be eating for dinner makes those early morning starts less unpleasant.
Including a crumbly goats’ cheese in the mixture is a reliable way to satisfy my hunger, a few thin slices of prosciutto will perk up the frugal nature of the lentils
and the poached egg just gilds the lily.
Lentil Salad with Goats’ Cheese, Prosciutto and
Poached Eggs
1 cup French green lentils
1 tbsp olive oil
6 slices of soft goats’ cheese
1 tbsp malt vinegar
2 eggs
a small bunch of parsley
salt and pepper
6 slices of prosciutto
Rinse the lentils thoroughly under cold running water then put them into a saucepan with 3 cups of lightly salted water. Bring slowly to a simmer, cook for
15-20 minutes until they are tender, then drain through a sieve. Tip into a warm bowl and stir the olive oil and cheese through. While the lentils are cooking, bring another saucepan of lightly salted water to a vigorous simmer and add the malt vinegar. Carefully break each egg into a breakfast cup, then gently slide the egg into the water, reducing the heat to a gentle roll. Cook the eggs for 3 minutes, then remove them with a slotted spoon to a dish lined with kitchen paper. Roughly
chop the parsley and fold gently into the lentil mixture. Check the seasonings and add salt and pepper if necessary. Divide the lentil salad between 2 plates and arrange the prosciutto slices over the salad. Top each plate with a poached egg.
Serves 2.
Wide ribbons of pasta compensate for a lack of ingredients, making this a cheap meal. Despite the austerity of no sauce except the mushroom juices, there is still something earthy and elegant about this
classic Tuscan dish.
Pappardelle Pasta with Mushrooms
300g portobello mushrooms
1 medium onion
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tbsp olive oil
2 cloves garlic
salt and freshly ground black pepper
300g dried pappardelle pasta
3 tbsp freshly chopped parsley
parmesan cheese
Clean the mushrooms, then slice thickly. Slice the onion thinly. Heat the butter and olive in a frying pan, then add the onion and cook until translucent. Add the mushrooms
and cook over a high heat. Chop the garlic and add to the pan. Season with salt and pepper. Keep the heat high so that the mushrooms develop a light crust and a full flavour. While the mushrooms are cooking, bring a deep saucepan of salted water to a vicious boil, then slide in the pasta. Cook until tender to the bite – about 8-10 minutes. Drain the pasta but do not rinse, then add to the mushroom mixture. Stir the parsley and parmesan
through the pasta, then toss.
Serves 2.
I usually prefer a packham pear in this dish, but I also use nashi when they are available. The Sainte Maure is a mild, chalky goats’ cheese with a rind similar to
camembert. The soft texture and slightly sour taste are a fabulous addition to a winter salad, which is perfect
for lunch.
Fried Goats’ Cheese and Pear Salad
2 thick slices of baguette bread
4 tbsp olive oil
80g unsalted butter
1 large, ripe pear
salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 thick slices of Sainte Maure goats’ cheese
a handful of salad leaves
pea shoots
DRESSING
juice of a lemon
3 tbsp olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the grill. Brush the bread with some of the olive oil, then grill until golden brown on both sides. Place a piece on each serving plate. Melt the butter in the oil in a frying pan over a moderate heat. Wash the pear, then cut it into quarters, core and cut each quarter in half. Fry
the pear for 3-4 minutes or until golden brown. Season with salt and pepper, then push the pear pieces to one side. Cook the slices of cheese in the pan, turning
gently with a spatula. Divide the salad leaves between 2 plates, then top with pear slices. Place the goats’ cheese slices on top of the pears. Make the dressing by
whisking the lemon juice and oil with salt and pepper. Toss the pea shoots gently in the dressing, then place over the cheese.
Serves 2