Summer may be fading away, but it's still a good time to be in the kitchen.
Autumn is upon us, the clocks have gone back and the days are shorter, but I am not ready to give up on my summer cooking just yet. The capsicums are an economical buy and their flavour seems to intensify at this time of the year. I also want to make the most of fresh green beans before turning to cheaper dried haricot or cannellini beans for winter, when I will happily make some rich stews and gratins. Summer may be fading, but it’s good to be in the kitchen.
Peperonata can be served straight from the pan, or may be stored in the refrigerator and served at room temperature as part of an antipasto platter or tapa. With the red and yellow capsicum, the peperonata brightens many dishes. If snapper is -unavailable, use whatever fish you prefer.
Pan-fried Snapper with Peperonata, Anchovies and Black Olive Sauce
Peperonata
1 aubergine
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 onion
1 red capsicum
1 yellow capsicum
2 tbsp olive oil
60ml white wine
3 tomatoes, seeded and chopped
½ cup pitted olives
6 anchovies
1 lemon
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Remove any green leaves from the aubergine, then cut it into 4 pieces from just below the stem down to the base. Wrap the aubergine in tinfoil and bake in the oven for 30-40 minutes until it feels voluptuously soft. Remove the aubergine from the oven, then carefully lift it out of the tinfoil. Scrape the flesh from the skin and place in a colander to drain. Crush the garlic and thinly slice the onion. Cut the capsicums in half, then seed and cut into 5mm-thick strips. Heat the oil in a frying pan and add the garlic. Lightly fry to a golden brown, then add the onion and cook until soft. Gently stir in the aubergine and capsicum slices. Pour in the wine, bring to a simmer, and cook for 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook until all the liquid has evaporated. Add the olives, anchovies and a squeeze of lemon juice. You may need to add a little salt and black pepper.
Serves 4.
This recipe is based on the classic tapenade from the south of France, where traditionally it is a pounded paste of olives and capers. I used to be a purist about making this sauce, crushing the olives by hand in a pestle and mortar, imagining I was in Provence while doing so, but I am over that now, and I feel quite comfortable making it in a food processor.
Black Olive Sauce
300g large black olives, pitted
2 cloves garlic
75g tinned tuna in oil, drained
2 tbsp capers, drained and rinsed
100ml olive oil
leaves from 2 sprigs of thyme
freshly ground black pepper
Blend all the ingredients in a food processor until they form a smooth paste. Store the sauce in small jars in the refrigerator.
For the Snapper
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tbsp cooking oil
4 x 200g snapper fillets, preferably with the skin on salt
juice of 1 lemon
Heat the butter in a frying pan until it starts to foam, then add the oil. Place the fish fillets skin-side down in the pan and cook for about 3 minutes. Turn the fish over and cook for another 3 minutes, depending on the thickness. Gently lift the fish from the frying pan and keep warm on a suitable plate. Sprinkle liberally with lemon juice. Place the fillets on individual plates, top with peperonata and serve the olive sauce on the side.
Serves 4.
A platter of cured meats, cheese and vegetables is often all that is served for lunch at home, along with a basket of crusty bread with which to mop up leftover dressing or sauce. Here, I combine salmon and prosciutto with just-cooked beans, giving the platter a sophisticated air.
Smoked Salmon and Prosciutto Roll with Green Beans and Hazelnut Vinaigrette
300g green beans, trimmed
½ cup hazelnuts, toasted
2 tbsp chopped chives
3 tbsp olive oil
zest and juice of 1 lemon
salt and pepper to taste
16 slices of prosciutto
8 slices of smoked salmon
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, then cook the beans until tender – about 3 minutes. Drain and refresh in iced water, then drain again through a sieve and dry in a tea towel. In a bowl mix the hazelnuts, chives, oil, lemon zest and juice, then season with salt and pepper. Lightly toss the beans in the dressing.
On a large piece of plastic wrap arrange 4 slices of prosciutto vertically and overlapping to form a rough rectangle. Place 2 slices of salmon in the same fashion on top of the prosciutto. Lie the beans horizontally across the salmon, then roll up tightly in the plastic wrap, tying it at each end. Repeat until all the salmon, prosciutto and beans are used up. Refrigerate until needed.
Slice the rolls into 3cm-wide pieces, then unwrap and place on a serving platter. Spoon over the remaining dressing.
Enough for 4.
ALTHOUGH THIS RECIPE makes a great dinner dish, having it for brunch would be a nice start to a day. The salad can be served on its own with some crusty bread.
Pan-Fried Groper with Chorizo and Potato Salad and a Soft-Boiled Egg
400g potatoes
salt
3 tbsp olive oil
250g chorizo sausage
½ bunch of spring onions
½ bunch of parsley, chopped
2 tbsp sherry vinegar
freshly ground black pepper
4 tbsp unsalted butter
4 x 200g groper fillets
juice of a lemon
malt vinegar
4 eggs
Peel the potatoes and cut into 3cm chunks. Place them in a deep saucepan, cover with warm water and add a pinch of salt. Simmer until tender – about 20 minutes. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a frying pan over a high heat. Chop the chorizo into pieces about 1cm thick, then fry until fragrant and crisp. Drain the potatoes, then add to the frying pan while still hot. Slice the spring onions and add to the potato mixture with the parsley and vinegar. Season to taste with the salt and pepper. Set aside to keep warm.
Heat the butter and remaining tablespoon of oil in a frying pan until the butter starts to foam. Carefully place the fish in the pan. To avoid overcrowding the pan, you may need to cook the fish in batches. Cook for 3-4 minutes, then turn and cook for a further 3-4 minutes, depending on the thickness. Season with salt and a squeeze of lemon juice.
While the fish cooks, bring a saucepan of water to the boil and add a couple of splashes of malt vinegar. Poach the eggs in the water until just cooked – about 3 minutes. Lift the eggs out of the water and drain thoroughly. Pile the chorizo salad onto 4 individual plates and top with a piece of groper. Carefully place a poached egg on the fish, breaking the egg open just before serving.
Enough for 4.