A delectable home-made smoked tomato sauce is perfect to serve with individual whitebait pies.
Guests arrived unexpectedly one Saturday afternoon and, as can sometimes happen at our house, we were all still sitting at the kitchen bench at dinnertime. As there was not much food in the fridge, I defrosted a small quantity of whitebait that my daughter Julia had caught earlier in the week.
Whitebait have been largely absent from the Waikanae River, so the most interesting aspect of this season is that she now has her own net and her own spot on the river, tucked in between those of her mother and grandmother. She hasn’t caught much, but I admire her enthusiasm and commitment.
As there was not really enough whitebait to feed everyone, I also defrosted some puff pastry. Although we were sceptical about the merits of my idea, the result was a pleasant surprise. A delightfully flaky crust with a simple filling of whitebait combined to create a brilliant twist on a simple dish – a whitebait pie served with tomato sauce.
I made individual pies, but you can also make one large one by using a 22cm flan tin. The unusual part of the method is that I use a metal ladle to form the pie shape, otherwise the whitebait filling spills out. You could also use a muffin pan.
Besides asparagus, spring also heralds the arrival of radishes. I adore their crisp texture and warm flavours of pepper and horseradish. I always think bunches of radishes, with their curious tails, have a rather encouraging feel to them – it’s as if they add a little bit of sunshine to a dish.
The blushing pink of French breakfast radishes is surely one of the most attractive vegetable hues. With their red skin and white flesh, they look fresh and appealing, brightening any salad. A bowl of radishes washed and served with a dish of softened butter and a little sea salt makes a tasty snack.
Roasted in butter, radishes make a graceful accompaniment for quail, duck or chicken. I also use them poached in cider with a little butter to accompany a piece of fish. And once, I ate a sublime radish soup that had pearls of tapioca floating in it.
Radish leaves are also edible and can be dressed with a simple vinaigrette of red wine vinegar and oil. Always choose radishes that have firm flesh and healthy green tops. Store them in a plastic bag in the fridge.