There is much pleasure in simple ingredients cooked slowly.
The weather has finally turned cold enough for me not to feel too self-indulgent about a bit of slow cooking. This is simple cooking, which produces charmingly rich, aromatic and sticky stews that involve little more than meat, earthy vegetable flavours, red wine and well-flavoured stock. There is a reason that this type of cooking is often called comfort food. It is food with soul, with history, and it comes with the promise of creating memories.
The short ribs are a cut from just behind the chuck, but if your butcher cannot provide them – surprisingly, many butchers do not know what they are – then substitute brisket. If you wish, this dish can be made ahead of time and reheated. It is greatly improved after a few days in the refrigerator.
BRAISED SHORT RIBS, GREEN OLIVES AND CURRANTS WITH ROAST PARSNIPS AND SPINACH
750ml red wine – eg, cabernet sauvignon
3 tbsp brandy
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1.5kg beef short ribs, bone in and trimmed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
1 tsp black peppercorns
400ml beef stock
½ cup green olives, washed
½ cup currants
1 cup cooked spinach leaves
Preheat the oven to 180?C. Pour the wine and brandy into a saucepan and boil for 2 minutes to evaporate the alcohol, then remove from the heat. Place a large frying pan over a high heat. Add the oil, then brown the short ribs until the meat is nicely caramelised. Drain off any excess oil. Season the ribs with salt and pepper, then remove to a plate. Add the vegetables and herbs to the frying pan and brown lightly for about 5 minutes. Return the ribs to the pan with the beef stock and add water if there is not enough stock to cover the ribs. Bring to a boil, then pour into a casserole dish, then cover with a lid or a piece of baking paper or tinfoil, then place in the oven.
Cook gently for 2½ hours or until the ribs are tender enough to pierce with a fork. Carefully remove the ribs from the stock and keep them warm on a serving platter. Strain the stock into a clean saucepan and add the olives and currants. Put the saucepan on top of the stove to heat. Continue to simmer until it has thickened slightly and reduced by half. Season with salt and pepper, then pour the sauce over the ribs. Serve with the spinach and parsnips.
Serves 6-8.
ROAST PARSNIPS
3-4 parsnips, peeled and cut in half
lengthways
olive oil
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled but crushed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Toss the parsnips with the olive oil, garlic and a little salt and pepper, then roast in a preheated 180?C oven for 45 minutes until tender and lightly browned.
Serves 6-8.
GRILLED FILLET STEAK WITH POTATO GNOCCHI, PROSCIUTTO, BRUSSELS SPROUTS AND A GRAIN-MUSTARD SAUCE
2 tbsp olive oil
4 180-200g fillet steaks
2 tbsp unsalted butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup dry sherry
½ cup beef stock
1 tbsp grain mustard
50ml cream
juice of ½ lemon
2 cups potato gnocchi, cooked, or 500g
commercially made gnocchi
300g brussels sprouts, trimmed and
quartered
80g unsalted butter
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
6 slices prosciutto, cut into thin ribbons
Heat the oil in a frying pan, then fry the steaks on one side until brown. Add the 2 tablespoons of butter to the pan, turn the steaks over, then continue cooking until the meat is done to your liking, basting with buttery juices as it cooks. Season with salt and pepper, then remove the steaks to a plate to keep warm. Pour the sherry into the frying pan and return to the heat. Simmer for 2 minutes, scraping up any bits that have stuck to the pan. Add the stock and simmer for 3 minutes, then stir in the mustard and cream along with any juices that have accumulated around the steaks. Bring back to a simmer, then add the lemon juice and extra salt and pepper. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil, then briefly cook the gnocchi, removing them from the water as they float to the top.
When all the gnocchi are cooked, drop the brussels sprouts into the same water and cook for about 3 minutes. Drain the sprouts and set aside. Heat the second measure of butter in a frying pan over a high heat, then add the onion and cook until translucent. Add the gnocchi, prosciutto and cooked sprouts, then sauté until the sprouts become tender and have coloured a little. Season with salt and pepper, then arrange the sprout mixture on individual plates. Place a steak alongside each pile, then spoon over the sauce.
SOME EXPERTS INSIST THAT gnocchi should be made without eggs, as they believe egg makes the potato smell bad and can make the gnocchi heavy. I disagree. Gnocchi should be featherlight, like delicate clouds, not hard or lumpy, and I think egg improves the texture. I prepare my gnocchi in advance, then allow it to reheat in the sauce.
POTATO GNOCCHI
1kg potatoes, dry and aged
1 egg, beaten
400g flour
salt
2 tsp olive oil
100g parmesan, grated
1 tsp nutmeg
Cook the potatoes in their skins by either boiling or baking until cooked through. Do not overcook them or they will fall apart and absorb too much water. (You want to reduce the water content.) Peel and mash the potatoes while still hot. A potato ricer is brilliant for this, as it improves the evaporation. Do not be tempted to use a food processor as this will result in a gluey mess. Once the potatoes are cold, place them in a large bowl with the egg, 200g of flour, salt, olive oil and parmesan cheese. Mix well, then turn the mixture out onto the bench and continue to knead while adding the remaining flour and the nutmeg. This will take about 10 minutes to become slightly elastic and smooth. Roll the dough into long sausages about 1.5cm in diameter, then cut into 2cm lengths. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi in small batches, removing them as they rise to the surface. Plunge the gnocchi into a bowl of iced water to cool, then drain and toss in a little oil to prevent sticking.
Serves 6.