Although saffron is expensive, a little bit will go a long way, enhancing whatever it is paired with.
Saffron is one of the most intriguing and captivating spices. It is also one of the most misunderstood. Many chefs assume that saffron use is all about the colour rather than the delicate flavour, so their dishes often end up a luminous yellow and overly pungent instead of pale, subtle and fragrantly seductive with honey-like aromas.
Saffron also has an unfortunate reputation as an expensive spice. But with good reason. Harvesting the dried stigma of the pretty mauve-coloured Crocus sativus flower is highly labour-intensive, requiring 150,000 flowers to produce just one kilo of spice – and all handpicked in the early morning before the flowers open. After their removal from the flowers, the stigmas are then dried.
Most saffron comes from Spain, Iran, India and Morocco, but increasingly it is being grown in Canterbury, Blenheim and Hawke’s Bay. The quality and intensity of this local saffron is exceptional, and a generous pinch is enough to release profound flavours and enhance whatever it is paired with.
Some recipes recommend lightly toasting the filaments to release the flavour, but because they are prone to burning, I prefer to soak them in hot water. When a recipe calls for saffron, do not substitute turmeric, which is completely different.
For this paella, use a firm fish with great texture, such as monkfish. If you wish, the fish can be chopped up and added to the rice as it cooks. Mussels or cockles can be used instead of prawns.
PAN-FRIED FISH WITH SAFFRON PAELLA
PAELLA
100ml olive oil
16 large prawns, peeled
4 chorizo sausages, sliced into
1cm-thick slices
2 medium red onions, chopped
2 red capsicums, seeded and chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ tsp fennel seeds
800ml chicken stock
1 tsp saffron threads
250g short grain rice
80ml white wine
a pinch of smoked paprika
4 tbsp chopped Italian parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FISH
4 x 200g fillets of fish
2 tbsp cooking oil
4 tbsp butter
salt
juice of a lemon
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
green salad leaves or watercress
Heat a large frying pan over a high heat, add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, then quickly sauté the prawns and sausage until just cooked – about 3 minutes. Remove the prawn mixture and pan juices to a small bowl.
Wipe the pan clean, return it to the heat, then add the remaining oil. Once it is hot, add the onion and capsicum, then cook for about 10 minutes or until soft, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to low, add the garlic and fennel seeds, then cook until fragrant – about 10 minutes.
In a separate saucepan bring the stock and saffron to the boil. Add the rice to the frying pan and stir for 1 minute to coat it in the oil. Add the wine, stock, paprika and half the parsley, then lightly season with salt and pepper. Resist stirring the rice as it simmers – after 10 minutes, there should be only a little liquid left. Add the prawn mixture and juices, cook for 5 minutes, then add the remaining parsley. Leave for 3-4 minutes before serving.
For the fish, heat a frying pan, then add the oil and heat until it starts to get a bit hazy. Carefully slide the fish fillets into the pan, then cook until golden brown – 4-5 minutes – before turning. Lower the heat, then add the butter and season the fish with salt and a squeeze of lemon juice. As the butter froths, use it to baste the fish until cooked through – about 3-4 minutes. Serve the fish alongside the paella. Drizzle a little balsamic vinegar over the fish, then serve with salad leaves or watercress.
Serves 4.
THE MARINADE IN THIS recipe can be used for a whole roast chicken, too.
SAFFRON MARINATED CHICKEN BREAST WITH NEW POTATOES AND MINT
1 tsp saffron threads
½ cup chicken stock
4 chicken breasts, skin-on
2 tsp olive oil
juice of a lemon
2 tbsp butter
600g new potatoes, washed
1 sprig of thyme
2 bay leaves
1 head of garlic, cut in half
2 tbsp chopped mint
100g unsalted butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 160?C. Heat the saffron and stock in a small saucepan until boiling, then remove from the heat and cool. Place the chicken breasts in a shallow dish, then cover with the cold stock, oil and lemon juice. Heat the first measure of butter in an ovenproof frying pan and when it turns nut-brown, add the chicken skin-side down. Fry gently until golden brown all over, then pour in the leftover marinade. Bring to a simmer, then place the pan in the oven for 10-15 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven, baste the chicken with the juices, then let it stand for 5 minutes.
For the minted potatoes, bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, then carefully add the potatoes, thyme, bay leaves and garlic. Bring back to the boil, then cook until the potatoes are tender. Drain and discard the herbs. Return the potatoes to the pan, add the mint and butter, then season with salt and pepper.
To serve, slice the chicken breasts, place the slices alongside the potatoes on each of 4 serving plates, then spoon the juices over the chicken.
Serves 4.
WHEN ADDING THE SCALLOPS, keep the frying pan hot so that they quickly caramelise on the outside. This will also stop too many juices leaching out, which would cause them to stew.
SCALLOPS WITH GRAPEFRUIT SALAD AND SAFFRON-HAZELNUT VINAIGRETTE
VINAIGRETTE
1 tsp saffron threads
2 tbsp water
1 tsp grain mustard
50ml grapefruit juice
40ml grape seed oil
120ml hazelnut oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup of lightly chopped hazelnuts
SCALLOPS
20 scallops
2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
salt
a squeeze of lemon juice
2 ruby grapefruit
salad leaves
Heat the saffron and water, then remove from the heat and place in a blender with the mustard and grapefruit juice. With the motor running, slowly pour in the oils, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the hazelnuts. Heat a frying pan until almost smoking. Roll the scallops in the melted butter, then fry them until golden brown. Season the scallops with salt and a squeeze of lemon juice. Transfer them to a plate to keep warm. Peel and segment the grapefruit, removing the pith and membranes. Gently toss the segments and salad leaves with the dressing. Arrange the scallops on each of 4 serving plates, with the salad in the centre, then spoon extra dressing over the scallops.
Serves 4.