Grains of Truth

A versatile kitchen staple, rice can be used in anything from a Pacific-style pudding to savoury cakes and cheesy snacks.

Few ingredients span as many cultures and cuisines as rice. Although it can be a symbol of prosperity or fertility with which to shower newly married couples or devotees at religious ceremonies, this humble grain can also be used in a variety of dishes, including creamy risottos and sushi, or as an accompaniment for steamed vegetables.

Rice is generally classified into two groups: long grain and short grain. Long grain, which includes jasmine and basmati, has chewy grains that remain separate when cooked. They are a terrific partner for curries. Short grain has plump, slightly sticky grains when cooked, which makes it ideal for paella, risotto, sushi, and puddings scented with vanilla, -cardamom or citrus.

I use an electric rice cooker for long grain rice, but the following method works just as well. Pour the rice into a saucepan, then add enough clean water to cover the rice to the depth of the first joint of your forefinger. Bring the saucepan to a simmer over a moderate heat, then turn down the heat and cover with a tea towel (to absorb the steam) and a tight-fitting lid. Cook for 20 minutes, then remove the lid and allow the steam to escape before fluffing up the rice with a fork.

One of my childhood memories is of English-style short grain rice pudding cooked slowly for several hours. Fragrant with nutmeg and lying under a layer of crisp brown skin, this dish was served with canned mandarin slices. My version is quicker to make and has a Pacific feel. Don’t substitute canned mandarins – use fresh oranges or bananas, instead.

Quick Coconut Rice Pudding with Mandarins

125g short grain rice

4 large mandarins, peeled

Wash the rice under cold running water until the water remains clear. Place the rice in a deep saucepan with the coconut milk, salt and zest, then cover and cook for 20-30 minutes. Transfer the rice to a bowl to cool slightly. In a separate saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a simmer for 2 minutes, then gently stir it into the rice. Peel the mandarins, removing as much white membrane as possible. Serve the rice with mandarin segments scattered over the top.

Serves 4.

Leftover risotto or congee can be used to make this mushroom cake, which should be crisp on the outside and meltingly creamy on the inside.

Roast Fish with Mushroom Rice Cake, Braised Onions and Balsamic Vinegar

the rice cake

1 tbsp cooking oil

In a medium saucepan heat the oil and fry the garlic and onion until fragrant – about 5 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat with the oil. Add the stock and zest, cover with a lid, then simmer until the rice is cooked – about 20 minutes.

Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the mushrooms and cook until softened – about 2 minutes – then add the tarragon. Stir the mixture into the rice and season with salt and pepper.

Line a 15cm square pan with greaseproof paper, then spread the rice evenly over the paper. Cover with a second piece of greaseproof paper and smooth the rice flat. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Cut the cake into four 7-8cm circles. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a high heat, then sauté the rice cakes over a high heat until golden brown and crisp.

The Onions

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 180?C. Place the onions in a roasting dish with the spices, bay leaves, garlic and stock. Cover the dish with tinfoil and cook for an hour until the onions are tender. Season with salt and pepper, then set the onions and stock aside.

The Fish

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

Preheat the oven to 180?C. Heat an ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat, then add the butter and oil. Once the butter is foaming, add the fish fillets and cook for 3-4 minutes or until brown. Turn the fillets over, season with salt, then finish the cooking by placing the pan in the oven for 4-6 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and place the fish on a suitable plate to keep warm. Squeeze the lemon juice liberally over the fish.

Place a rice cake in the centre of each of 4 plates. Place a piece of fish on top, then arrange the onions around the outside, spooning over the cooking juices. Splash the fish with balsamic vinegar.

Serves 4.

Arancini translates AS “Little oranges”, which is what these small balls of rice resemble. They can be made in advance and then cooked to order, which makes them perfect to serve when you have friends around.

Arancini with Sicilian

Tomato Sauce

1 litre of chicken stock

1 cup breadcrumbs

First, make a basic risotto. In a medium-sized saucepan bring the stock to a simmer. In another medium-sized saucepan, melt the butter, then add the rice and cook gently for 2 minutes until it is translucent and fragrant. Stir the hot stock into the rice, then cover the saucepan with a lid. Simmer the rice until tender and creamy – about 15 minutes. Stir in the egg yolk and parmesan, then season with salt and pepper. Line a baking tray with greaseproof paper and spread a thin layer of risotto over it. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

Dip your hands into a bowl of cold water, then divide the rice into 40g balls. Place a ball of rice in your palm, press a cube of mozzarella into the centre of the ball, then shape the rice back around to cover the hole. Heat the oil to 180?C in a deep saucepan. Dip the balls in the beaten egg, then roll in the breadcrumbs. Fry in the hot oil until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper. Serve unaccompanied or with the tomato sauce below.

Serves 4.

Sicilian Tomato Sauce

120ml olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the oil and garlic in a medium-sized frying pan and toast the garlic until golden and fragrant. Add the tomatoes and simmer for 15 minutes, breaking them up with a wooden spoon. Season with salt and pepper.

Makes 600ml.