Lean, red and healthy venison

It contains less fat than skinless chicken breast and more iron than beef, and can be used in any recipe that calls for meat to be cooked quickly.

Photo Elizabeth Clarkson/styling Kate Arbuthnot

It will probably be a surprise to many to learn that 3500 venison farmers are raising more than one million deer on farms throughout New Zealand, ranging in size from small plots to properties over 4000ha. As the first country to begin extensive deer farming, we remain the world’s largest producer, exporting about 95% of our venison to restaurants and supermarkets in Europe and the US.

Deer farming in New Zealand didn’t begin until the late 70s, even though European red deer were originally introduced in the 1870s and roamed wild. A few entrepreneurial farmers realised they could produce better, more consistent venison than the wild hunted animals by carefully raising them on free-range farms. Farmed deer roam freely, feed on the high-country tussock grasses and are never given growth hormones or steroids. The animals are processed at a young age, ensuring tender meat with a mild flavour. The largest farms are in the South Island’s hill country, but smaller ones can be seen throughout the North Island. The ability of deer to leap to considerable heights means extra-high fences are needed and these can be seen in rural areas.

Venison is a lean, healthy red meat, with less fat than skinless chicken breast and more iron than beef. Its vitamins, zinc and readily available protein make it a nutritious choice; the variety of cuts available make it a versatile option, too. Hearty chunks and elegant racks for roasts and celebratory meals have meant that until recently venison was priced beyond the reach of many cooks, most of whom did not have a lot of experience with cooking the meat even when it was available. Venison was seen as a restaurant dish.

We’ve been eating venison more frequently in our household since it has become more widely available in good supermarkets in convenient packs with enough for two to three servings. The most common cuts are medallions, stir-fry and mince. Labels to look for are Silver Fern Farms and Woodburn, although there are other quality producers of farm-raised venison who sell their meat at farmers markets or in local butcheries and supermarkets. Venison is a nutrient-dense meat, so serve smaller portions. The lack of fat means the meat dries out quickly when cooked, so it should be served quite rare and pink inside. If it is cooked until the meat turns greyish, it can develop an almost liver-like flavour.

It is better to undercook venison medallions or stir-fries of tender strips, then leave the meat to rest for a few minutes so the juices are reabsorbed before serving. Venison can be used in any recipe that calls for meat to be cooked quickly. It combines well with spices, vegetables and fruits and is enjoying a new popularity as a healthy everyday family meal. These tasty meatballs can be served as a meal or shaped into smaller bites to serve as finger food or tapas.

SPICEY VENISON MEATBALLS

  • 4 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 small onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 3 slices stale white toast bread
  • 500g venison mince
  • pinch cayenne pepper
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 tsp fresh thyme, chopped finely
  • 1 egg
  • salt and pepper
  • 12 very thin slices streaky bacon
  • chopped parsley to garnish
  • sauce
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 small fennel bulbs, sliced into 1cm rings
  • 1 tsp fennel seeds
  • 3 tomatoes, skinned
  • 500ml beef stock

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a frying pan, then add the onion and garlic. Fry gently until golden. Cool. Remove the crusts and pulse the bread in the food processor for a minute to form large crumbs. Tip the venison mince into a large bowl and add the onion and garlic mixture, breadcrumbs, cayenne, cumin and thyme. Beat the egg and add with salt and pepper to taste. Use your hands to work this mixture, kneading for about 3-4 minutes so it becomes sticky and well mixed. Divide into 12 meatballs, each a little larger than a golf ball, and wrap a slice of bacon around each one, securing with a toothpick. Set aside to rest for about 15 minutes. To make the sauce, heat the oil in a saucepan, then add the fennel and fennel seeds. Gently cook over a low heat for about 10 minutes, tossing occasionally until the fennel softens. Chop the skinned tomatoes and add to the fennel with the stock. Allow to bubble up, then cover with the lid and simmer gently for 15 minutes. To finish, add the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil to the frying pan and gently sauté the meatballs until brown. You may need to do this in 2 batches. Add the meatballs to the sauce and leave to simmer for a further minute or two. Serve sprinkled with freshly chopped parsley. Serves 4. Wine match: a Gimblett Gravels syrah.

PAN-ROASTED VENISON MEDALLIONS WITH ORANGE GLAZE

  • 1 pack venison medallions
  • 2 tsp ground cumin
  • salt and black pepper
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 large shallots, finely sliced
  • 2 tbsp rosemary, finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp flour
  • 1 cup beef stock
  • 2 oranges
  • 12 baby beetroot, boiled and peeled
  • 1 bunch asparagus spears, steamed until tender
  • 12 baby new potatoes, boiled
  • butter and mint to garnish

Wipe the venison dry, and dust with the cumin and a little salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a medium frying pan and sear the meat quickly on both sides. Remove the venison from the pan, and set aside on a plate. Add the shallots and rosemary to the pan, scraping the juices and adding a little more oil if it has all been absorbed by the meat. Fry very gently until the shallots soften and start to turn golden. Stir in the flour, cook a further minute, then add the stock and the grated zest of the oranges. Simmer gently for about 3 minutes while you peel the oranges with a knife, removing all the white pith. Cut the flesh into neat segments. Return the venison to the pan with the orange segments and allow to bubble gently while the venison heats through. This should not take more than 2-3 minutes, as the venison should be rare. Serve with a mixture of baby beetroot, steamed asparagus and new potatoes. Use butter and mint to garnish. Serves 3 (or 4 for light eaters). Wine match: cabernet ­sau­vignon.