Succulent melons and pomegranates provide a starting point for some delicious summery dishes.
Tapping the sides of a vibrant, striped watermelon at the market and hearing more of a vibrating “ping” than a dull “thud” tells me it is magnificently ripe, heavy with juice and likely to make splendid eating on a hot day, either on its own or in a salad. Keeping it at room temperature ensures I have a melon that provides excellent texture as either a savoury or sweet ingredient. When the watermelon is lightly barbecued (yes, barbecued) and sprinkled with sea salt, the flavour is elevated. This is great when combined with grilled tomatoes, basil and a fluffy goat cheese.
In the market, I also find fresh pomegranates, a relatively new ingredient here. I make a cross-cut incision in the top and soak them in cold water for 30 minutes before cutting them into quarters and removing the ruby-red jewel-like seeds. This prevents the juice, which will stain all it touches, from running everywhere.
With friends possibly coming for dinner, I decide several days ahead to cure the beef for a stylishly Asian take on carpaccio; it’s a bit of a restaurant dish, but certainly achievable.
It would be enough on its own, but I decide on a Mediterranean theme for the main course, leading me to a summery gazpacho to be used as a sauce for a piece of grilled fish on jersey benne potatoes and olives.
I serve a watermelon salad on the side, fragrant with pomegranate molasses. If you have fresh pomegranates, sprinkle the seeds over the melon. The saltiness of the feta cheese is perfect against the cooling sweetness of the melon. This dish also works well when made with honeydew melons. Pomegranate molasses is available at most food stores.
Melon with whipped feta cheese and pomegranate molasses
1 small watermelon or honeydew melon
1-2 tbsp lemon juice
4 tbsp olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
300g soft feta cheese
4 tbsp pomegranate molasses
1 small bunch of rocket leaves
Peel the watermelon and cut it into thick slices, removing as many seeds as possible without destroying the pieces. Do this over a bowl so you retain the juice. Cut the flesh into 4cm chunks, or use a melon baller to make small orbs, then place in the bowl with the juice. Mix the lemon juice and olive oil, then season. Place the cheese in a food processor and blend until smooth, then add half the oil and lemon dressing. Toss the remaining dressing through the watermelon. Rinse the rocket leaves, then shake dry. Gently mix through the watermelon and divide among your serving plates. Place spoonfuls of the whipped feta on top of the melon, then spoon the molasses over the top. Serve immediately.
Clean and fresh tasting, this salad is balanced in terms of flavours, temperatures and textures, but feel free to add more chilli if you wish. Allow 24 hours for the beef to cure.
Palm-sugar-cured beef salad with cucumber, green beans and roasted peanuts
beef
½ cup palm sugar, grated
1?3 cup sea salt
1 tbsp black peppercorns
4 coriander stems, roots attached, chopped
600g piece of fillet or sirloin steak,
trimmed of all fat
Dressing
1 bird’s eye chilli
juice of 1 lime
1 tsp sugar
2 tbsp Thai fish sauce
1 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
1 tsp freshly grated ginger
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tsp soy sauce
Salad
1 cucumber
200g green beans, cut into 2cm lengths
handful of coriander leaves
handful of mint leaves
4 large lime leaves (if available)
bunch of watercress
½ cup roasted peanuts, chopped
Combine the palm sugar, sea salt, peppercorns and coriander. Place the piece of beef in a shallow dish and rub the marinade all over it. Cover with plastic wrap, then refrigerate for 24 hours, turning the beef regularly. Scrape off the curing mix and wipe clean. Heat a frying pan over a high heat, then sear the beef briefly on all sides in a dry pan until nicely browned. Remove from the heat and refrigerate again until completely cool.
To make the dressing, halve the chilli, remove the seeds and chop finely. Place in a mixing bowl with the juice of the lime, sugar, fish sauce and sweet chilli sauce. Mix until the sugar dissolves, then add the grated ginger, garlic and soy sauce. Store at room temperature.
Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil. Slice the cucumber into thin ribbons and place in a mixing bowl. Quickly cook the beans in the boiling water for 2-3 minutes, then drain and refresh under cold running water. Add the beans to the cucumber. Roughly chop the coriander and mint. Roll the lime leaves together, shred them as finely as you can, then add to the cucumber and herbs. Wash the watercress and remove the stems, then add to the rest of the salad with the roasted peanuts. Pour over enough of the dressing to lightly coat the salad ingredients. Use a sharp knife to carve the beef into thin slices, then toss with the salad and dressing. Pile generous mounds of the salad on each serving plate.
Serves 4-6 generously.
This gazpacho can also be served as a chilled soup.
Grilled fish, jersey benne potatoes, olives and gazpacho sauce
4 x 180g fish fillets
4 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
good pinch of salt
juice of 1 lemon
8-12 jersey benne or new season’s potatoes
½ cup black olives, pitted and sliced
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp red wine vinegar
2 tbsp chopped chives
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the grill and brush the fish with the melted butter. Cook for 3 minutes, then turn the fish over and season with salt. Cook for another 3 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillet. Remove the fish to a plate, squeeze lemon juice over it and keep it warm.
Put the potatoes into a deep saucepan, cover with hot water, then bring to a trembling simmer. Once they’re cooked, drain, then leave until cool enough to handle. Slice the potatoes in half, then put into a bowl with the olives, olive oil, vinegar and chives.
Toss gently, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Place a mound of potatoes in the centre of each serving plate and surround with spoonfuls of sauce. Top the potatoes with the cooked fish.
Gazpacho sauce
1kg very ripe tomatoes, chopped
½ cup chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 red capsicum, chopped
15cm piece of cucumber, peeled and seeded
juice of 1 lemon
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
6 basil leaves, chopped
handful of parsley, chopped
pinch of ground cumin
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Mix the ingredients in a blender until extremely smooth, then season to taste with more salt and pepper if necessary. Keep the sauce at room temperature or chill until required.
Serves 4.