When you have a bag of fresh mussles, an economical meal is never far away.
A bag of fresh mussels picked up from the supermarket on the way home from the restaurant (I appreciate how odd that sounds) presented me with several economical supper options that were quick and easy to prepare. As often happens when I shop late at night, my greed got in the way of good judgment, and I ended up with more mussels than I needed. Thankfully, fresh mussels last for a few days in the fridge if they’re wrapped in wet newspaper or stored in a colander set over a bowl and covered with ice.
For the next few evenings and one Sunday lunch, I was eating handsomely within 20 minutes of starting to cook. I have frozen all the cooked mussels that I was unable to eat so that some time later I can make chowder for lunch or fritters for afternoon tea.
There is something rather generous about a large bowlful of mussels set in the centre of the table for everyone to help themselves. Frequently, I serve food that requires fingers rather than cutlery, as it seems to inspire a more convivial atmosphere. Mussels are possibly the most tactile of all ingredients, and using one mussel shell as a pincer to remove the meat from the remaining shells is a most rewarding way to eat.
I find it hard to resist eating the hot, plump bivalves as they come out of the saucepan, searching for my favourites, the orange-fleshed female ones. There is no difference in taste, it’s just that I prefer the colour. As a result, it is not uncommon for the bowl on the table to contain only the light beige-coloured mussels.
Of all the nationalities that cook mussels, the Belgians are famously the masters, usually serving them with mayonnaise and a bucket of french fries. They are also quite enthusiastic about dishes that involve flavoured trappist-style beers. I prefer to use vermouth or cider in this dish, however, as the flavour is not as strong.
Mussels in Parsley, Cider and Cream
2kg mussels
1 red onion
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 cup cider
100ml cream
a handful of italian parsley, chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper_
Scrub the mussels under cold running water, then remove the beards with a sharp downward tug. Discard any dead or broken mussels. Finely chop the red onion, then place with the butter in a large saucepan over a low heat. Cook for 2 minutes to allow the onion to soften, then pour in the cider. Bring to a brisk simmer, tip in the mussels, then cover with a lid. Steam the mussels for 3 minutes or until the shells have opened, then remove them to a deep, warmed bowl. Increase the heat under the saucepan, then pour in the cream and allow it to bubble away until it has reduced to a sauce consistency. Stir in the parsley, then taste for salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the mussels and serve.
Feeds 4.
Dipping your spoon into this fragrant broth is a truly satisfying experience.
Mussels steamed with Coconut Milk, Ginger, Lemongrass and Coriander*
2kg mussels
4 garlic cloves
2 tbsp peanut oil
2 stalks lemongrass
1 knob of fresh ginger, peeled
250ml beer
400ml coconut milk
salt
a handful of coriander leaves, chopped
Scrub the mussels thoroughly under cold running water, then tug off the beards by pulling them down towards the tip of the mussel. Discard any dead or broken mussels. Chop the garlic, then put into a wok with the peanut oil over a low heat. Bash the root-end of the lemongrass with the back of a heavy knife and slice the ginger thinly. Add both to the wok. Stirfry until fragrant – about 2-3 minutes – then add the beer and coconut milk. Bring to a simmer, then add the mussels and cover tightly with a lid. Steam for 2-3 minutes until they open, then use a slotted spoon to transfer the mussels to a serving dish. Turn up the heat and let the sauce simmer. Check the seasoning and add salt if necessary. Pour the sauce over the mussels and scatter the coriander over the top.
Feeds 4.
Witloof is also known as Belgian endive or chicory. Select plump heads that are tightly closed and nearly all white with a tinge of pale yellow. Any with green leaves are likely to be past their best. Witloof keep well in the refrigerator and are best stored in blue plastic to protect them from the light. Their slight bitterness can be a welcome contrast in creamy dishes, and served raw they make a great-tasting salad.
Cooking witloof is a simple affair. If I want to use them as a vegetable, I melt some butter in a pan, tuck the witloof in with a little lemon juice, sugar, salt, then cover them with water. Then I cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and leave them to simmer over a moderate heat for about 30 minutes before removing the lid and turning up the heat. Evaporating the liquid around the softened witloof results in a sauce that is sweet and glossy.
Curried Mussels with Witloof**
1 tbsp olive oil
2 shallots
2 garlic cloves
1 tsp thyme leaves
2kg mussels, scrubbed and bearded
½ cup white wine
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 plump heads of witloof
300ml cream
2 tbsp reserved mussel stock
a good-sized pinch of curry powder
salt
2 egg yolks
Heat the oil in a saucepan over a low heat. Finely chop the shallots and garlic, then add to the saucepan with the thyme leaves and cook until soft. Add the mussels and wine, then bring to a simmer, cover with a lid and allow the mussels to steam for 3 minutes or until the shells open. Discard any that do not. Let the mussels cool in the liquid, then remove the meat and set aside, discarding the shells. Strain the liquid from the saucepan and reserve.
Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil. Remove any imperfect leaves from the witloof and trim the bases. Blanch each of the witloof heads in the boiling water for 5 minutes, then drain and refresh them under cold running water. Remove and squeeze out as much water as you can. Place the witloof on absorbent paper and pull the leaves from the base. Put the cream, mussel stock and curry powder into the saucepan and bring to a simmer. Reduce to a sauce consistency, then check the seasoning, adding salt if required. Whisk in the egg yolks, then add the witloof leaves, mussels and their juices to the pan and heat through. Do not allow the sauce to boil otherwise the egg yolks may scramble. Remove from the heat and serve.
Enough for 4.