Pavlova perfection

Genevieve Knights's new book, pavlova, takes a fresh look at our national dessert.

Anna Pavlova (1885-1931) was an internationally renowned Russian ballerina who travelled the world performing for fascinated audiences in what must have been, for many, their first glimpse of top-class ballet.

A visit to New Zealand in 1926 made a large impact on those who saw her dance and much was done to impress her. It was known she was fond of meringues, and according to one tale a Wellington chef may have created the first pavlova cake in her honour and served it to her during her tour. Sadly, there is no way to verify this story. Nevertheless, The Pavlova Story, by anthropologist Helen Leach (Otago University Press), sheds new light on the history of this country’s national dessert.

The earliest recorded recipe for a meringue sweet to be called “Pavlova” was published here in 1928. Created by Dunedin home cook Rose H Rutherford and published by Christchurch’s Weekly Press under the name “Pavlova Cakes”, these were small, piped coffee essence and walnut meringues.

Under the pseudonym “Festival”, a recipe for the first “Pavlova Cake” as we know it today was published in the NZ Dairy Exporter Annual in 1929 in a brief description of two short sentences. It was made up of sugar, egg whites and cornflour, with no vinegar, separated into two and baked in sandwich tins. A single-layer cake also going under the name “Pavlova Cake” appeared in the Rangiora Mothers’ Union Cookery Book of Tried and Tested Recipes in 1933, courtesy of local woman Laurina Stevens. This two-egg white “pav” was also baked in a sandwich tin, and once again with cornflour but no vinegar.

In 1929 the name started changing from meringue cake to pavlova and was printed as such in a number of publications by 1934. Also in 1934, a recipe in the Wellington YMCA’s fundraising book, Blue Triangle Cookery Book, called for the pavlova cake to be baked directly on top of greased paper instead of in a sandwich tin. All the cakes mentioned garnishing with whipped cream and other toppings like nuts and fruit.

Pavlova may now be considered “old-fashioned”, but maybe it’s time to breathe some life back into this long-adored recipe to ensure it is cemented into the hearts of future generations of Kiwis.

For a special occasion, almonds, cream and honey are a beautiful flavour combination that works well with pavlova.

Almond & Honey Layer Cake

4 egg whites

50ml runny honey

Preheat the oven to 150°C on fan-bake. Using a pen, draw 2 x 20cm-diameter circles on sheets of non-stick baking paper and set aside. In a large clean bowl, whip the egg whites until peaks form. While continuing to whip, gradually rain in the sugar. Whip for a further 8-10 minutes until the sugar has dissolved.

Add the vinegar, then use a metal spoon to very gently fold in until combined. Divide the meringue between the circles of paper. Using a spatula or palette knife, work the mix to the edges of the circles, creating even, flat discs. Sprinkle the almonds evenly over both layers. Holding the paper very taut, place the layers on baking sheets. Place the baking sheets in the oven and bake for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to 100°C and cook a further 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool to room temperature.

Put the cream and honey in a bowl and beat until soft-whipped. Remove the paper and place the first cake layer, nuts-side up, on a serving plate. Pile on the cream, smoothing evenly, leaving a centimetre gap at the edge. Remove the paper and top with the second layer. Chill.

Serves 6.

For this recipe I combined two Australian inventions: pavlova roll and lamingtons. It makes a decadent dessert the whole family will enjoy.

Lamington Pavlova Roll

4 egg whites

½ cup shredded or desiccated coconut

Preheat the oven to 160°C on fan-bake. Line a tray with non-stick baking paper. In a large clean bowl, whip the egg whites until peaks form. While continuing to whip, gradually rain in the 125g of caster sugar. Whip for a further 5 minutes until all the sugar has dissolved.

Add the vinegar, then use a metal spoon to very gently fold in until combined. With a spatula, smooth the mix out on the prepared tray to form a 25cm x 30cm shape. Bake for 8 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the 80ml of cream and the 25g of caster sugar in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer then add the chocolate. Stir to combine then briefly whisk until smooth. Set aside. Beat the 250ml of cream and 25g of caster sugar until soft-whipped. Smooth the cream evenly over the roll. Roll up widthways, pulling away the paper as you go.

Brush a light coating of chocolate all over the roll. Sprinkle over two-thirds of the coconut. Place upside down on a fresh piece of baking paper. Brush the underside with the remaining chocolate and sprinkle with the remaining coconut. Chill in the fridge for 30 minutes to set and keep chilled until serving time.

Serves 6.

For a change from whipped cream, try this luscious crème fraîche topping. Its slight tartness pairs beautifully with fresh berries and the sweetness of pavlova.

Piped Raspberry, Passionfruit & Crème Fraîche Nests

3 egg whites

2 fresh passionfruit

Preheat the oven to 150°C on fan-bake. Line a tray with non-stick baking paper. In a large clean bowl, whip the egg whites until peaks form. While continuing to whip, gradually rain in the 180g of caster sugar. Then whip for a further 8-10 minutes until all the sugar has dissolved.

Add the vinegar, then use a metal spoon to very gently fold in until combined. Fit a piping bag with a large plain nozzle. Fill the bag and pipe 6 nests onto the baking tray. Start by piping a spiral circle 6cm in diameter. Then pipe meringue around the edge on top of the bases. Bake in the oven for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to 100°C and cook a further 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool to room temperature. To serve, combine the crème fraîche, yoghurt and 60g of caster sugar. Place the nests on individual plates. Top with the crème fraîche mix and the fruit. Serve immediately.

Serves 6.