The superior scarlet runner bean is well worth seeking out.
You rarely find scarlet runners in supermarkets, which is a shame as they are the best green bean available. I get my supply from my mother-in-law, who delivers them almost daily. Any surplus ends up being used at the restaurant.
Surprisingly, although scarlet runners are a stunning bean to eat, many growers never think of cooking them. With its pretty orange flowers, the bean is sometimes grown as an ornamental to cover ugly garden areas.
Although some people claim the beans can be eaten raw, I don’t recommend it, as they contain a chemical that can cause serious illness. They take a bit longer to cook than the conventional round runner bean or the flat green bean, but I urge you to check out growers’ markets or ask your local market to get them for you. After all, my mother-in-law can’t supply everyone.
The beans also require more trimming than conventional beans, and are at their best steamed then tossed in unsalted butter with salt, freshly ground black pepper and a touch of lemon juice.
The scarlet runner, also known as a pole bean, is prolific and grows from midsummer through February and into early March. They get their name from the rosy-pink hue that surrounds the seeds within the wavy pods, which can grow up to 30cm long. The pink colouring turns grey with age and they can then be cooked in the same way as lima beans.
I have been making this foolproof recipe for so many years that it feels like an old friend. Originally created to match one of winemaker Larry McKenna’s outstanding wines, the dish has proved itself a winner.
SALAD OF SCARLET RUNNER BEANS WITH TOMATOES, ALMONDS AND SWEET ONION VINAIGRETTE
500g scarlet runner beans, trimmed
4 tomatoes, seeded and chopped
4 tbsp slivered almonds, lightly toasted
salt and freshly ground black pepper
160ml sweet onion vinaigrette
Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. (Use plenty of salt, as this is the best time to get the seasoning into the beans.) Cook the beans for 4 minutes or until tender. Drain in a colander under cold running water. Drain thoroughly and then slice into 1cm-wide diagonal pieces (also known as “french-cut”). Place the beans, tomatoes and almonds in a bowl. Gently toss and season lightly. Pile the salad into the centre of a large serving plate and drizzle with vinaigrette.
SWEET ONION VINAIGRETTE
100g red onion, chopped
2 tsp dry mustard powder
a pinch of salt
2 tsp sugar
freshly ground black pepper
125ml olive oil
Put a litre of cold water and the onion in a saucepan and bring it to the boil. Cook for 1 minute, then drain the onion in a colander under cold running water. Allow to drain thoroughly, then transfer the onion to a blender with the mustard, salt, sugar and a little pepper. Blend until the mixture is creamy and smooth. Keeping the motor running, slowly add the oil, which will form a smooth emulsion. Check the seasoning. The dressing should be a soft pink.
Serves 4.
AFTER WE PHOTOGRAPHED THIS dish, I ate it for lunch, and felt that all it really needed was a simply dressed side salad of peppery rocket leaves, with maybe some ripe cherry tomatoes tossed through it. The recipe relies on the parmesan and blue cheeses for its saltiness, so has no added salt.
SCARLET RUNNERS WITH PASTA AND BLUE CHEESE CREAM
500g scarlet runner beans, trimmed
500g orecchiette or penne-type pasta
2 tbsp unsalted butter
2 tbsp parmesan cheese, grated
freshly ground black pepper
1 cup cream
150g blue cheese, such as Kapiti
Kikorangi or Te Mata Creamy Blue
Bring 2 saucepans of salted water to the boil. Slice the beans into long, thin strips and cook in one saucepan for 3 minutes. Drain the beans and set aside to keep warm. Cook the pasta in the other saucepan. Reserve a cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta and stir in the butter and parmesan cheese. Season lightly with pepper, then set aside. Return the pot to the heat and add the cream. Bring to the boil and cook until it has reduced by half. Add the cup of reserved pasta water and bring back to the boil. Add the blue cheese, reduce the heat and gently stir in the pasta. Serve the pasta with the warm beans arranged attractively on top.
Serves 4.
SIMPLE, LIGHT AND QUICK to make, this refreshing salad is perfect for lunch or dinner. The dressing can be made while the potatoes and beans cook. It would also be great made with groper, snapper or blue cod instead of tuna.
GRILLED TUNA WITH SCARLET RUNNERS, PROSCIUTTO AND POTATO SALAD AND CAPER DRESSING
4 x 100g pieces of fresh tuna
2 tbsp olive oil
sea salt
1 lemon
2 cups cooked potatoes
2 tbsp chives, chopped
1 tbsp virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4-6 slices of prosciutto
300g scarlet runner beans, trimmed
and cooked
Heat a frying pan until hot. Brush the tuna with the oil and carefully place the pieces in the hot pan. Sear for 1 minute on each side. Remove the tuna from the pan and season with sea salt and a squeeze of lemon juice. Toss the warm potatoes with the chives, the second measure of olive oil, and the salt and pepper. Cut the prosciutto into wide strips and add to the potatoes. Slice the warm beans and arrange with the potato salad on 4 plates. Slice the tuna steaks in half and place on top of the salad. Drizzle with caper dressing.
CAPER DRESSING
2 tbsp capers
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
freshly ground black pepper
zest of 1 lemon
½ tsp of chopped fresh thyme leaves
½ cup virgin olive oil
Soak the capers in a bowl of cold water for 30 minutes. Drain and finely chop them, then place in a small bowl. Stir in the vinegar, garlic, pepper, lemon zest and thyme leaves. Mix in the olive oil until it forms a smoothish paste.
Serves 4.