Indulge yourself in the spring pleasures of broad beans and asparagus.
As spring progresses, I indulge myself in the versatility of broad beans, asparagus and globe artichokes. On a recent visit to Hawke’s Bay, I filled my market basket with all three, plus some purple heirloom carrots. Despite knowing there is no difference in flavour between the pencil-thin and the almost jumbo-sized asparagus spears, I took an age to decide which to buy. The thinner stems seem much more elegant, whereas the fatter spears are easier to peel, something I insist on doing as it ensures the base is cooked in the same time as the fragile tips. (I like to save the ends and peelings for a simple soup that uses potatoes and spinach and is enriched with more than just a splash of cream.)
To cook asparagus I use a deep saucepan of gently boiling, lightly salted water. I have tried several different cooking methods over the years, from a shallow frying pan that required a fish slice to awkwardly lift out the spears, to a fancy asparagus basket that hung inside the saucepan, keeping the stalks vertical and the tips proud of the water so that they steamed through. It was effective, but I kept getting steam burns while trying to remove it from the water.
The simplest ideas are often the best, and as long as there is plenty of room for the asparagus to move around, a deep saucepan works just fine. Cook the asparagus until it is only just done – overcooked asparagus has an earthiness that dulls its bright -flavour. Cooking times will vary according to the size of the spears, so it pays to remove a spear and test it by biting into it. Any longer than four minutes, though, and you may as well make soup, instead.
Once the asparagus is cooked, I toss it through scrambled eggs mixed with a little tarragon for an easy supper, or into a savoury custard tart for an afternoon tea. When stirred into a risotto with some grated lemon zest it will brighten up the day, but it is in a salad that the true beauty of this short-lived vegetable can be truly appreciated.
I keep the salads simple, with easy dressings – often the only accompaniment is a poached egg sprinkled with toasted breadcrumbs. Having sought out the best ingredients at my local farmers’ market, it makes little sense to overwhelm them with a myriad other ingredients.
Tiny and tender, early season broad beans are a humble but happy addition to many dishes, from risottos to salads, and provide a real culinary treat. They go brilliantly with asparagus and fresh herbs, and I find it best to keep any dressing clean and sharp for fear of overpowering their delicate flavour.
MINTED ASPARAGUS SALAD WITH BROAD BEANS AND SALAMI
750g broad beans in their shells
1 bunch of asparagus
6 slices of salami
3-4 sprigs of garden mint
3 tbsp olive oil
juice of 1/2 a lemon
1 tsp sugar
salt and pepper
Pod the broad beans to yield 200g. Cook in boiling salted water until tender (once they float to the surface, they are done), then drain. Although the cooked beans don’t need to be peeled, it is well worth the effort, and this is done by gently squeezing the beans between your fingers. Snap the asparagus spears at their most tender point by bending them between the thumb and forefinger of each hand, then slide the asparagus gently into a large saucepan of boiling salted water. Cook until just tender – about 4 minutes – then drain carefully. Mix the beans and asparagus together in a bowl. Cut the salami into thick lengths and coarsely chop the mint. Toss with the asparagus and beans. In a small bowl whisk the oil, lemon juice, sugar and salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the dressing over the salad, gently toss everything, then divide between 2 plates.
Makes enough for 2.
THIS MAKES A wonderful accompaniment to grilled fish, or just serve it on its own as a simple entrée.
ASPARAGUS WITH BLOOD ORANGES, SPANISH ONION AND OLIVE OIL
12 asparagus spears
2 blood oranges
1 Spanish or red onion
olive oil
black pepper
Peel the asparagus from just below the tips down to the woody end, then trim. Lower the spears into a pan of lightly salted boiling water and cook for 1-2 minutes. Drain and leave to cool. Peel the oranges and cut each one into 4 thick slices. Quickly place in a small bowl so that you retain as much juice as possible.
Finely slice the onion into rings and gently toss with the orange slices. Dress with a little olive oil. Pile the asparagus onto a serving plate with the orange and onion on top, spooning over any dressing left in the bowl. Give a couple of turns of a pepper mill over the top, then serve.
Serves 2.
YOU REALLY SHOULD eat this dish while everything is still warm. It makes a wonderful light lunch. For dinner, it could be followed by a pleasing bowl of pasta.
WARM SALAD OF ASPARAGUS WITH JERSEY BENNE POTATOES, HAZELNUTS AND POACHED EGG
350g jersey benne potatoes
2 large sprigs of garden mint
1 bunch of thick asparagus spears
a splash of malt vinegar
4 free-range eggs
1/2 cup toasted hazelnuts
3 tbsp olive oil
juice of _ a lemon
salt and black pepper
4-5 stalks of Italian parsley, leaves only
Scrape the potatoes clean of dirt and place in a large saucepan covered with lightly salted hot water. Add the mint sprigs and simmer until the potatoes are tender. Drain the potatoes through a colander and set aside. Put another deep saucepan of lightly salted water on to boil. Trim the woody ends from the asparagus. Lower the spears into the water and cook for 2-3 minutes until just tender. Drain the spears and wrap in a damp tea towel – this will keep them warm.
Bring a saucepan of lightly salted water to a vigorous simmer, then add the -vinegar. Carefully break each egg into separate breakfast cups, then gently slide the eggs into the water, reducing the heat to a gentle roll. Cook the eggs for 3 minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon to a tray lined with absorbent kitchen paper.
Cut the warm potatoes into quarters and toss with the asparagus in a large bowl. Roughly chop the hazelnuts and turn gently through the salad. Add the oil and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Arrange the salad on 4 plates and top each pile with a poached egg. Scatter parsley leaves over the top and serve.
Serves 4.