When the occasion calls for good food to go with good company, these hearty dishes will fit the bill.
These are recipes for boys with hearty appetites, the kind of men who dislike food that has been mucked about with and enjoy dishes like their mothers used to make. You don’t often see dishes like these on restaurant menus, which is probably just as well, because some creative chef would probably want to add a vanilla foam to them.
Although these dishes are usually reserved for occasions like Sunday lunch, I suggest you make them on the weekend so they can be reheated for weeknight dinners. As these are soulful dishes designed to feed family and friends, the occasion then becomes one of good food and good company.
Great for lunch, this dish is based on the traditional French pot-au-feu, which is usually made with ribs of beef, oxtail, brisket, veal, chicken, lamb rump and marrow bones. It take two days to make and maybe seven hours to eat, but there’s enough left over for lunch the next day.
The Italian version is bollito misto, and it is supposed to represent family ties of life and friendship. I don’t know how true that is, but the dish tastes pretty good.
British food writer Nigel Slater once wrote that “we all should have one dish that puts us back together again when everything appears to have fallen apart”.
In this recipe I have opted to use chicken instead of the usual variety of meats. For me, this turns the dish into the special one Slater was referring to; it’s full of smiles and promises.
Chicken Pot-au-Feu
1 litre of chicken stock
2 litres water
1 whole organic chicken
2 ribs of celery
1 onion, chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 head of garlic, cut in half around the equator
6 black peppercorns
4 sprigs thyme
8 small carrots
12 small turnips, peeled
12 small beetroot, cooked and peeled
4 small potatoes, peeled, cooked and
halved
salt and pepper
grain mustard (optional)
crostini spread with mayonnaise (optional)
In a deep saucepan large enough to take the chicken comfortably, place the stock, water, chicken, celery, onion, carrot and garlic. Tie the peppercorns and thyme in a small cheesecloth bag, then add to the saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then cook for 1½ hours, turning occasionally.
Remove the chicken to a suitable dish to cool, adding a couple of ladlefuls of stock to stop it drying out. Strain the stock, discarding the herb bag and vegetables. Return the stock to the saucepan. Place it back over a medium heat, then bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes to reduce. Skim off any scum. Add the small carrots, turnips, beetroot and potatoes, then cook for 5 minutes.
While these are cooking, remove the meat from the chicken, tearing it into pieces, and jointing the thighs and drumsticks. Return the chicken to the simmering stock and vegetables. Season with salt and pepper, then ladle the broth into a large bowl. I like to have grain mustard on the side, which I then stir into my broth. Crostini spread with mayonnaise is a great accompaniment.
Serves 4.
This simple dish enjoys company. If you make only one stew this year, it should be this one. It’s ideal for the enthusiastic cook who likes bold flavours. I won’t give a recipe for mashed potatoes, as I assume you know how to make them.
Simple Lamb Neck Chops with Mashed Potatoes and Creamed Spinach
70g unsalted butter
8 thick lamb neck chops
a pinch of sugar
1 large carrot
2 medium onions
2 tbsp flour
1 cup of white wine
1 litre of chicken stock
330g tin of whole peeled tomatoes
3 cloves of garlic, crushed
a few sprigs of thyme
2 bay leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp chopped parsley
Preheat the oven to 180?C. In an ovenproof frying pan, heat the butter until foaming, then add the chops, turning to ensure they are sealed on all sides. Sprinkle the chops with the sugar. (This will caramelise the meat to a deep brown.) Remove the chops from the pan and put to one side. Chop the carrot and onions into 2cm chunks, then add to the pan. Cook for 4 minutes, then add the flour and cook until golden brown – about 2 minutes. Add the wine, stock, tomatoes, garlic, thyme and bay leaves. Bring to the boil, then tuck the chops into the pan. Place a piece of greaseproof paper over the top, then cover with an ovenproof lid. Transfer the pan to the oven, then cook for 2 hours.
Remove the lid, then transfer the chops to a container to keep warm. Skim the fat off the liquid, then reduce it to a saucelike consistency over a medium heat on top of the stove. Strain off the vegetables and discard. Season the sauce with salt and pepper, then add the parsley. Place the chops in a serving dish, then pour the sauce over the top. Serve with bowls of mashed potato and creamed spinach.
Serves 4.
The secret to great creamed spinach is lots of butter and cream. It’s so simple to make: wash, cook, drain, simmer, done. Superb.
Creamed Spinach
2 tbsp olive oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 large bunch of spinach, trimmed and
washed
juice of a lemon
1 tbsp unsalted butter
3 tbsp crème fraîche or cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a frying pan, then add the garlic and fry until fragrant, but without colour – about 2 minutes. Add the spinach, then cook until it wilts. Drain in a colander. Add the lemon juice, butter and crème fraîche to the pan, then bring it to a simmer. Once the butter melts, add the spinach and heat through. Season with salt and pepper.
Serves 4.