Asparagus is a wonderful spring treat, so eat it while you can.
As soon as I see asparagus available at Mr Yee’s, I know spring has arrived, and even though early
season spears are appallingly expensive, I cannot resist buying some. I prepare the spears simply, then eat them with a soft-boiled egg, dipping the tips into the yolk.
At last the price of asparagus has fallen, and so that I don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy this gourmet vegetable, I am now using it whenever and wherever I can, such is its remarkable versatility. Although size does not really matter (if it’s fresh, it will be tender), asparagus is as much about taste as it is about texture. I prefer to use thick-stemmed spears, as they somehow offer a bigger experience. I peel the asparagus first, from the base of the stem towards the tip – this is worth doing.
If you are able to obtain pancetta, the cured Italian-style bacon, use it instead of the bacon, as it provides a smoky pepperiness to the risotto.
Asparagus Risotto with Bacon and Crumbled Goat’s Cheese
100g unsalted butter
1 small onion, chopped finely
200g arborio rice
250ml white wine
400g asparagus
500ml hot chicken stock
6 rashers of bacon
200g feta-style goat’s cheese
zest and juice of 2 lemons
2 tbsp grated parmesan
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Melt the butter in a deep saucepan over a low heat. Add the onion and cook until softened but not coloured. Stir in the rice, cook for 2 minutes, then add the wine and let it bubble away until nearly evaporated.
Break off the last 2cm of the asparagus spears and peel from the base to the tip. Chop the asparagus into 3cm lengths. In a separate saucepan bring the stock to the boil, then pour it onto the rice and add the asparagus. Cover the saucepan with a lid and simmer until the rice is creamy – about 15 minutes.
While the risotto cooks, grill the bacon until crisp, then roughly chop it into pieces. Add the bacon to the risotto, then gently stir in the crumbled cheese until it begins to melt. Add the lemon zest, juice and parmesan. Season with salt and pepper.
Serves 4.
I love the tender fragility of freshly made shortcrust pastry, but you can use prepared shortcrust pastry sheets if you wish.
Asparagus and Crab Tart
shortcrust pastry
3 cups flour
2 tsp salt
250g unsalted butter, cut into cubes
150ml ice-cold water
Preheat the oven to 180?C. In a food processor mix the flour and salt. Add the cubed butter and blend until it resembles fine sand. Add the cold water, then blend until it forms a ball, rolling around the inside of the bowl. (Using ice-cold water will result in a more tender and flakier pastry.)
Remove the pastry, then wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes before using. Grease individual 10cm fluted flan moulds. Lightly dust the bench with flour. Roll out the pastry to a thickness of no more than 3-5mm, then line the moulds with pastry, pressing it into the corners and leaving a 1cm overhang to allow for shrinkage as it cooks. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Place a piece of greaseproof paper in the pastry shells, then weight it down with rice or beans. Bake for 12 minutes or until the pastry is firm, then remove the beans and paper and return the shells to the oven for 5 minutes until dry. Cool the shells in the moulds, then use a serrated knife to trim the edges.
For the filling
12 spears asparagus
200g crabmeat
200ml crème fraîche
100ml sour cream
1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
2 tbsp parmesan cheese, grated
zest of 1 lemon
1 tbsp chopped parsley
2 eggs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Break off the last 2cm of the asparagus spears and peel from the base to the tip. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, then cook the asparagus for 4 minutes or until tender. Drain and refresh in ice-water. Dry with absorbent kitchen paper, then cut the asparagus into 2cm diagonal chunks. Mix the crabmeat with the remaining ingredients. Pour the mixture into the pastry shells, dividing the asparagus between them, then bake for 20 minutes at 180?C until the filling is set. Allow to cool slightly before removing from the moulds. Serve warm with a salad of lightly dressed rocket leaves.
Serves 4.
Chicken Paillard, Preserved Lemon Couscous, Asparagus, and Mushroom Butter
100g unsalted butter
4 large portobello mushrooms, peeled
1 small red chilli, seeded and chopped
160g unsalted butter
juice of 1 lemon
salt and freshly cracked black pepper
2 shallots, chopped
2 cloves garlic
375ml chicken stock
300g couscous
3 tbsp preserved lemon, diced
4 boneless and skinless chicken breasts
16 asparagus spears, peeled
Melt the first measure of butter in a large frying pan, then add the mushrooms and chilli. Cook until the mushrooms are tender – about 6 minutes. Remove from the pan and allow to cool completely. Put the mushrooms and chilli into a food processor. Add the second measure of butter, a squeeze of lemon juice and a little salt and pepper. Pulse a few times until the butter is smooth.
Put the couscous into a heatproof bowl. Return the mushroom pan to the heat and add the shallots and garlic. Cook for 5 minutes, then add the stock and bring to the boil. Remove the pan from the heat and pour the mixture over the couscous. Stir, then set aside to keep warm. Once the couscous has fluffed up, stir in the preserved lemon, seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary. Slice the chicken breasts into thirds, then flatten out between 2 pieces of plastic wrap. (I use a rolling pin to do this.)
Heat a frying pan and rub a little oil onto the chicken breasts before placing them in the pan. Cook the breasts for about 4-6 minutes on each side. Bring a pot of water to a rapid boil, then cook the asparagus for 3 minutes until just tender. Drain. Reheat the couscous in a microwave and divide between each of 4 plates. Place pieces of chicken on the couscous, then top with the asparagus. Top with a spoonful of the mushroom butter.
Serves 4.