Home-made fish and chips are so good they can be served for special occasions.
Photo Elizabeth Clarkson/styling Kate Arbuthnot
When my children were growing up, traditional fish and chips from the local fish shop were frequently on our household menu, often on a Friday night. But since the kids have flown the coop I never buy New Zealand’s favourite takeaway meal. Cooking this treat usually for just two people allows me to select the best fresh fish, dress it in a crumb coating and pan-fry it until golden and crisp. I serve the fish with home-made oven chips. That way I avoid deep-frying, an annoying cooking technique, because there is always the problem of how to dispose of the used fat or oil. My fish and chips are so good they have almost become a special-occasion meal.
The secret to a great crumb coating for fish and other meats is to use Japanese panko crumbs. These light, flaky crumbs are made from dried light white bread and absorb less oil than regular crumbs. They can be found in the Japanese specialty section of supermarkets – I counted four brands in my store. Once you try them, I’m sure it won’t be long before you abandon those stodgy, sawdust-like commercial crumbs in favour of panko. To ring the changes, I add spices to the crumbs. Ground cumin or paprika gives a flavour boost to the crumbed crust on fish, pork or chicken. Freshly chopped herbs will enhance the flavour and make crumbed schnitzel or fish more attractive.
If you’re making little patties, panko crumbs will give a much lighter result. Panko is also great to use on crumb toppings for casseroles and other dishes. They store well if kept in an airtight jar or a sealable plastic bag that excludes air and moisture.
My other tip for perfect home-cooked fish and chips is to bake, rather than fry, the chips. By parboiling the potatoes, the interior of each chip becomes soft and a little fluffy. Agria potatoes are ideal. I preheat the oven while the chips are simmering, then drain them well and toss in a mixture of hot oil and butter. I leave them in the oven to bake and crisp, shaking the pan occasionally so they don’t stick together. Sometimes I forget about the chips at the parboiling stage, yet the resulting crumbly mess, well-drained, turns into a delicious crushed potato mixture when baked with the oil and butter.
CRUMBED FISH FILLETS
- 600g thick fillets of snapper (or blue cod, tarakihi, hapuku or lemon fish)
- 4 tbsp flour
- salt and pepper
- 1 large egg
- 1 cup panko crumbs
- 5 tbsp light flavoured oil (I use grapeseed)
- 2 tbsp butter
- lemon wedges
- parsley
Cut the fish into 4 even pieces. Place the flour and seasonings in a shallow dish. Beat the egg in a shallow bowl until frothy. Place the crumbs in a separate bowl. To crumb the fish, coat the pieces lightly in flour, shaking off any excess, then dip the flour-coated fillets into the egg, one at a time, and immediately place in the crumbs, tossing well to coat all sides. Place on a clean plate or tray until you are ready to cook the fish. Heat the oil in a wide, heavy frying pan, then add the butter. When the butter starts to foam, place the fillets in the pan and cook gently until golden on one side. This should take about 3-4 minutes over a low heat. Turn the fillets over, taking care not to disturb the coating, and fry until golden. Drain on a paper towel and serve with wedges of lemon, parsley to garnish and the home-made chips. Serves 4. Wine match: riesling or a lager beer.
HOME-MADE OVEN CHIPS
- 4 medium/large potatoes (I prefer Agria)
- salt
- 3 tbsp light oil
- 2 tbsp butter
Preheat the oven to 190°C. Peel the potatoes and cut into thick chips. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and simmer the chips for 6-7 minutes. Drain well, ensuring they are completely dry. Heat the oil and butter in a roasting pan in the oven until the butter is foaming. Toss the chips in this mixture so all surfaces are covered, then bake for about 30 minutes or until golden. Serves 4.
CRUMBED AND STUFFED CHICKEN SCHNITZEL
- 2 large chicken breast fillets
- 3 tbsp ricotta
- 2 tbsp grated gruyère cheese
- 2 thin slices ham, cut into slivers
- 1 tbsp fresh french tarragon, chopped
- salt and pepper
- 4 tbsp flour
- 2 eggs
- 1½ cups panko crumbs
- ½ cup freshly chopped herbs (parsley, tarragon, basil and thyme)
- 4 tbsp light oil for frying
Place the first chicken breast on a large sheet of plastic wrap, then cover with a second sheet. Beat the chicken with a heavy rolling pin until the meat is thin and has spread out to form a 20cm square shape. Repeat this with the second breast. Meanwhile, mix the ricotta, gruyère, ham and tarragon with a little salt and pepper until well combined. Divide the mixture in half and spread over each chicken breast. Roll up so the mixture is in the middle and not too close to the edges. Pat the chicken into a rectangle shape. Dip the parcels in the flour, then into the beaten eggs and coat in crumbs mixed with the chopped herbs. If the coating seems a little thin, repeat the egg and crumb stage so the parcels are “double-crumbed”. Heat the oil in a frying pan and fry the chicken slowly over a gentle heat until golden – about 8-10 minutes for the first side and 6-8 minutes for the second. Cut each parcel in half and serve with a green salad. Serves 4. Wine match: chardonnay.
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