It is time to farewell winter with these inviting chicken dishes.
Spring must be close – the scallop season has finally begun, Jerusalem artichokes are at their best and lately I have cooked a couple of chooks, something I rarely if ever do during winter. There’s wild garlic around, the herbs are looking perkier and more delicate, the new potatoes can’t be far away, and I have discovered a supply of locally produced cultured butter. There is so much to smile about.
The key to a good fricassée is to keep the chicken as white as possible. Tarragon is the perfect partner for chicken; in fact, they seem almost destined for each other.
“Retro” Chicken Fricassée
with Tarragon Cream Sauce and Rice
free-range chicken, jointed into 4 pieces
with skin on and bone in – 2 pieces per
person
2 tbsp unsalted butter
2 cloves garlic
a small bunch of parsley
a small bunch of tarragon
200ml dry white wine
200ml cream
1 egg yolk
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups of cooked white rice
Wash the chicken pieces then pat dry. Rub the base of a large frying pan with the butter. Smash the garlic cloves with the side of a large kitchen knife, then add to the frying pan. Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper, then place them in the frying pan. Chop the herbs and sprinkle half of them over the chicken, then cover with a tight-fitting lid or tinfoil and put the pan over a low heat. Cook for 30 minutes, keeping the chicken white and ensuring the butter doesn’t brown. The cooking time will be governed by the thickness of the chicken.
Remove the chicken from the pan and set aside. Increase the heat under the pan and pour in the wine. Then add the remaining herbs and simmer for 2 minutes, loosening any bits on the bottom of the pan and mixing them into the sauce. Add half the cream and leave it to simmer for 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, mix the yolk into the remaining cream. Remove the pan from the heat, pour in the egg and cream mixture, then return the pan to the stove and lower the heat. Stir until the sauce thickens. Taste the sauce for seasoning; it may need a little salt and pepper. Place the chicken pieces on serving plates and spoon over the sauce. Serve with rice or bread, as you will want to mop up the sauce.
Serves 2.
Bernard Loiseau was one of the world’s great chefs, and his most famous dish was sautéed frogs’ legs with parsley sauce. In 2003, after his Gault Millau restaurant guide rating was reduced from 19/20 to 17/20, Loiseau shot himself – an absolute tragedy. This is my version of his signature dish.
Chicken Wings with Parsley Sauce and Garlic Purée
a small bunch of parsley
120g unsalted butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
32 chicken wings
2 tbsp unsalted butter
2 tbsp water
squeeze of lemon juice (optional)
Wash the parsley, then shake dry and remove the stems. Chop the leaves in a food processor, adding the first measure of butter in small pieces. Season with salt and pepper, then set aside.
Using a large knife, cut the small tip off the end of the chicken wings at the first joint. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, then blanch the chicken wings for 2-3 minutes. Quickly drain them and allow to cool. Remove the 2 small bones by pressing your thumb down on the wings – the bones will pop out easily from the other end.
Heat the 2 tablespoons of butter in a large frying pan and add the chicken wings. Season them with salt and pepper, then cook gently on all sides for 10 minutes until golden brown. Remove the wings from the pan, pour off any excess butter, return the pan to the heat and add the water. Gradually whisk in the parsley butter in small amounts, then check for seasoning. You may want to add a squeeze of lemon juice as well as the salt and pepper. Pour the parsley sauce onto 4 warmed serving plates, then place a tablespoon of garlic purée in the centre of each one. Arrange the chicken wings around the plate and serve.
Garlic Purée
5 heads of garlic
1 litre milk
1 cup cream
Peel the garlic cloves and trim off any green shoots. This takes quite some time, so involve others in the activity. Divide the milk into thirds. Place the cloves in a saucepan and blanch the garlic 3 times in cold milk, bringing each third to the boil. Blend until smooth, using the cream to thin the purée if required.
Serves 4.
ALTHOUGH it may look complicated, this simple roast turns the mundane into an absolute treat.
Roast Chicken with Mushroom Stuffing and Jerusalem Artichokes
1 large free-range chicken
3 dried shiitake mushrooms
1 cup Swiss brown mushrooms
2 portobello mushrooms
1 tbsp rosemary leaves
1 tbsp tarragon leaves
a small handful of parsley
1 tbsp unsalted butter
4 shallots
2 garlic cloves
1 tbsp olive oil
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
150g unsalted butter, softened
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lemon
600g Jerusalem artichokes, washed and
halved
1 tbsp unsalted butter
1 cup chicken stock
Preheat the oven to 200?C. Wash the chicken and dry with a paper towel, then run your fingers under the skin, starting at the wing end of the breast, to make a pocket that can be stuffed. Try not to split the skin.
Soak the shiitake mushrooms in warm water until soft, then drain and finely chop. Chop the Swiss browns, portobellos and herbs and mix together. Heat the butter in a frying pan. Chop the shallots and garlic and quickly fry them until brown and crunchy. Add the chopped mushrooms and olive oil and continue to cook until the mushrooms are tender and most of the liquid has evaporated – about 10 minutes.
In a bowl combine the mushroom mixture with the breadcrumbs and softened butter. Season with salt and pepper, then use your fingers to push as much of the stuffing as possible inside the skin, rubbing it into the flesh. Put any remaining stuffing inside the chicken, then seal the cavity with the whole lemon. Place the chicken in a roasting pan along with the artichokes. Brush the chicken with the 1 tablespoon of butter, season with salt and pepper and roast the chicken for about an hour.
Remove the chicken and artichokes from the roasting pan, tipping the chicken up so that the fragrant lemony juices drain into the pan. Transfer the chicken and artichokes to a serving plate and set aside in a warm place. Return the pan to the stove, pour in the stock, then cook until it has reduced to a sauce consistency, loosening any pan scrapings as you go. Season and serve with the chicken.
Serves 4.