With the change in the weather, a new season of food has begun.
One afternoon, Rachel Taulelei, my seafood supplier, arrived in the kitchen carrying a box of ingredients for me to look at. Fresh kina, their spines still gently moving, were broken apart to yield bright-orange roe that tasted pure, rich and delicate. An octopus lurked mysteriously in its bag of sea water – after some discussion, we decided to gently braise it for 30 minutes, then turn it into a tender carpaccio. Leftover trimmings from the tentacles were put aside for a seafood stew. The sea cucumbers were tasted and quickly discarded without further comment.
The jewels in the box, though, were the Nelson scallops. I like to eat fresh scallops raw, their creamy-white flesh slightly firm to the bite. A good scallop tastes sweet and glorious, bordering on seafood perfection. Resist the temptation to over-garnish scallops; they should be cooked with nothing more than a decent-sized piece of butter and a clove of garlic.
With local scallops this good, I struggle to understand why some restaurants are featuring imported frozen Atlantic scallops on their menus.
I sneak anchovies into my cooking – almost like a secret ingredient – whenever I can. They help the base flavour, providing support for the dish without anyone realising they’re there. I cook the anchovies until they dissolve into the oil. In this dish you can smell the aromas from the herbs. Serve with crusty toast.
The accompanying aioli, which should be a rich yellow, doesn’t need to be overly thick – it’s quite unlike a traditional aioli in which you should be able to stand a spoon.
Seafood Stew with Chickpeas and Saffron Aioli
2 cloves garlic
2 tbsp olive oil
3 anchovy fillets
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 cup white wine
400g can of chopped tomatoes
400g can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
500ml chicken stock
1.5kg assorted seafood (scallops, snapper, calamari, etc)
20 cockles
a small bunch parsley
salt and pepper
Slice the garlic. Heat the oil in a deep saucepan, then cook the garlic, anchovies, bay leaves and thyme until the anchovies have melted and the garlic is golden. Add the wine, simmer for 2 minutes, then add in the tomatoes, chickpeas and stock. Simmer for 20 minutes. Starting with the thicker pieces, add the 1.5kg of seafood. Add the cockles and cook until they open. Chop the parsley and sprinkle over the stew. Taste for salt and pepper and add if necessary. Pour the stew into a large serving dish and drizzle the aioli over the top.
Saffron Aioli
4 large garlic cloves, peeled
salt
2 large free-range egg yolks
3-4 saffron threads
300ml olive oil
juice of ½ a lemon
Place the garlic and a good pinch of salt in the bowl of a food processor and purée to a smoothish paste. Add the yolks and saffron, then, with the motor running, slowly pour in the oil until the mixture becomes reasonably thick. Add the lemon juice, then taste for salt.
Serves 4.
The golden rule with squid is to cook it for only 2 minutes, otherwise it becomes tough and rubbery and you may as well cook it for a further 20 minutes – or chew on rubber bands. The caesar dressing adds a savoury highlight.
Squid, Potato and Fennel Salad with Caesar Dressing
400g new potatoes
500g squid tubes
5 tbsp olive oil
2 cloves garlic
zest of 1 lemon
2 bulbs of young fennel
1 red onion
a handful italian parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the potatoes into a saucepan of salted water, bring to the boil then cook until tender – about 20 minutes. Drain and cut into thick slices. Cut the squid into large pieces and place in a bowl with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Finely chop the garlic and grate the lemon zest, then add to the squid and mix well. Leave to marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Finely slice the fennel and combine with the potato in a large bowl. Finely slice the onion and add to the fennel. Strip the parsley leaves off the stalks, then add to the vegetables and gently toss with the remaining oil. Season with a good pinch of salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Place a frying pan over a high heat. Drain the squid from the marinade, then cook for a few seconds, turning it as soon as it colours. Toss the squid through the salad, arrange on a platter, then spoon the dressing over the top.
The Dressing
2 free-range eggs
2 garlic cloves
1 tbsp worcestershire sauce
1 tsp dijon mustard
4 anchovy fillets
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
100ml olive oil
100ml grapeseed oil
Purée the first 6 ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Mix the oils. With the processor motor running slowly, add the oil in a thin stream until the dressing is thick. Do not add the oil too quickly or the dressing will not thicken.
Serves 4.
This elegant dish is straightforward and requires little advance preparation. Serve it for lunch.
Scallops, Bacon and Green Beans with Raisin and Caper Dressing
180g green beans
150g streaky bacon
2 cloves garlic
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
3 tbsp olive oil
12 scallops
2 tbsp unsalted butter
salt
juice of ½ lemon
Top and tail the beans, then cook them in boiling salted water until tender – about 2-3 minutes. Drain the beans and put into a bowl. Chop the bacon into 1cm pieces and cook in a large frying pan until crisp. Add the bacon and any fat residues to the beans, then toss. Slice 1 clove of garlic finely, then mix with the vinegar and oil. Drizzle over the beans and bacon. Pierce the scallops with the tip of a sharp knife – this helps prevent them spitting during cooking. Warm the butter in a frying pan. Peel and squash the second garlic clove with a knife blade, then cook in the butter for a minute or two – just long enough to flavour it. Remove the garlic and add the scallops. Fry quickly for 2-3 minutes or until they have plumped up, then season with salt and lemon juice. Arrange the bean salad on 2 warmed plates and top with scallops. Spoon the raisin and caper dressing around the outside.
The dressing
2 tbsp capers, rinsed
3 tbsp raisins
½ cup water
Put the ingredients into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and blend until smooth.
Serves 2.