The misunderstood globe artichoke is a vegetable that's worth the preparation time.
Lately, meals at my house have been a mixed bag. A grilled lamb rack with a salty crust of rosemary and garlic served with a mound of buttered spinach one night, a pork fillet with steamed rice and a sharp-tasting salsa with cucumbers, tomatoes and capers the next. It wasn’t until some friends asked me to prepare boiled globe artichokes with lemon butter that things started looking up.
Artichokes are a nightmare to match with wines as they contain a compound that makes wine taste bitter, but champagne goes with anything, as well as lifting the spirits.
So, after choosing plump, heavy artichokes with tightly closed leaves and a firm stem, I sat at the kitchen table, a glass of champagne at my side, pulling off the outer leaves and listening as each gave way with a satisfying squeak. Once the pale yellow inner leaves were revealed, I sliced the top third off the artichoke, just below the inedible point-end of the leaves, and quickly peeled the stems with a vegetable peeler. Then I rubbed the exposed and cut surfaces with a lemon half before tossing the artichokes into a stainless-steel bowl of cold water acidulated with a squeeze of lemon juice.
After cooking the artichokes in boiling water, I scooped out the unwanted hairy central choke with a teaspoon before cutting the artichokes into wedges to serve.
Despite the afternoon being pleasant and sunny, it was cold enough to have the fire going. We sat at the kitchen table scraping the fleshy base off the leaves with our teeth, and had a bowl of strawberries to finish. This style of eating started to look like the perfect idea.
With its reputation for being hard to prepare, tricky to eat and not really worth the effort, the globe artichoke has to be one of our most misunderstood vegetables. But it is a wonderful vegetable, and this recipe is probably the best place to start if you have yet to get to grips with your first artichoke. Remarkably easy to prepare, this dish can be eaten with your fingers, so make sure you have plenty of napkins or hot, wet cloths on hand. Serve a green salad on the side.
Artichokes with Lemon Butter
4 artichokes
2 large, juicy lemons
150g unsalted butter
2 tbsp parmesan cheese, grated
1 tbsp chopped parsley
salt and pepper
Remove the artichokes’ tough outer leaves by snapping them off until you get to the pale inner leaves. Cut off the top third of each artichoke, then rub the cut surfaces with a lemon half to prevent discoloration. Peel the stems with a vegetable peeler. Put the juice from the other lemon half into a saucepan of rapidly boiling salted water and plunge in the artichokes. Cook for 25 minutes, then drain by turning them upside down and squeezing out the water. Pull away the purple leaves that surround the choke, then use a teaspoon to scoop out the fuzzy centre. Cut each artichoke into 8 wedges and place in a deep bowl. Melt the butter in a saucepan over a low heat, then mix in the zest and juice from the second lemon. Stir in the cheese and parsley, adding salt and pepper if required. Pour the butter over the artichokes, then serve.
Serves 2.
ALTHOUGH I love the wide, fat ribbons of pappardelle, fettuccine will work just as well in this recipe.
Pappardelle with Artichokes and Sage
4 large artichokes
juice of 1 lemon
150g pappardelle pasta
3 tbsp olive oil
2 garlic cloves
6-8 sage leaves
salt and pepper
parmesan cheese to serve
Trim off the artichokes’ outer leaves, slice off the top third, peel the stems with a vegetable peeler, then cut the artichokes into quarters. Put the lemon juice into a bowl and toss the artichokes in it. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the pappardelle until al dente – about 8 minutes. Drain through a colander and toss the pasta with a tablespoon of oil. While the pasta is cooking, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a frying pan and fry the artichokes until golden brown. Thinly slice the garlic and roughly chop the sage, then add to the artichokes. Gently cook the artichokes for 3-4 more minutes, then season with salt and pepper. Mix the artichokes through the pasta, then serve on hot plates with plenty of grated parmesan cheese over the top.
Enough for 2.
Ravigote is a classical sauce usually served with cooked calves’ brains, but it’s equally perfect with crumbed dishes. Interestingly, fried artichokes do not have the same effect on wine as raw or boiled ones.
Crumbed Artichokes with Ravigote Sauce
4 artichokes
1 cup flour
2 cups breadcrumbs
2 free-range eggs
750ml vegetable oil
1 lemon, cut into wedges
Trim the outer leaves from the artichokes until you get to the pale yellow leaves. Slice off the top third and with a small knife trim away any small leaves from the base. Peel the stems with a vegetable peeler. Cut each artichoke into 8 wedges and use a teaspoon to remove the furry central choke. Put the flour on one shallow plate and the breadcrumbs on another. Beat the eggs in a small bowl and place in a line between the 2 plates. Lightly toss the sections of artichoke in the flour, shake off any excess, then dip each piece into the egg mixture. Allow to drain through your fingers, then toss the pieces in the breadcrumbs. Set aside. Heat the vegetable oil in a deep saucepan to 180°C or until moderately hot, then deep-fry the sections until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper, then serve with lemon wedges and the sauce on the side.
Ravigote Sauce
1 hard-boiled egg
1 small red onion
4 tbsp chopped parsley
2 tsp capers
4 small cornichons or 2 gherkins
1 tsp Dijon mustard
a pinch of cayenne pepper
100ml olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
salt and pepper
Finely chop the egg and onion, then place in a bowl. Add the parsley. Finely chop the capers and cornichons, then add to the bowl. Mix in the mustard, cayenne, oil and lemon juice. Check the seasoning and add salt and pepper if required.
Serves 2.