What a lovely pear

This versatile fruit is an unsung hero in the kitchen.

Often overlooked and very much underrated in the autumn fruit bowl is the seductive yet humble pear. Is this because the exterior promise of something delicious and sensuous is not always the experience delivered? I suspect so.

The pear is different from other fruits in that it ripens from the core out, so squeezing the fruit is not always an indication of perfect ripeness. To test, squeeze the pear gently near the stem: if it gives slightly, it is ready to eat.

So often a pear is bursting with sweet ripeness, yet the core is brown and rotten or the flesh has turned grainy. Get the ripeness correct, though, and it is a marvellous and versatile fruit.

There are a wide variety of pears available here. My favourite is the unequalled Doyenné du Comice. It is sweet, buttery and never mealy-textured, so is perfect served raw in salads or as an accompaniment to hard, sharp cheeses.

For cooking, my favourite is the Beurré Bosc, the long, tapered and elegant pear with brown skin and rich, aromatic flesh. Others include Packham’s Triumph, a large, green, misshapen fruit with juicy flesh; Taylors Gold, a squat yet creamy, aromatic and juicy pear; and the highly juicy Red Anjou, which is one of the most beautiful looking.

This salad makes a terrific early autumn lunch dish. The pears give it an aromatic sweetness and pleasant crunch. The avocados are rich in oil that only heightens the sublime texture of the pears.

PEAR, AVOCADO, CHORIZO SAUSAGE AND PRAWN SALAD WITH MUSTARD-SEED VINAIGRETTE

2 ripe pears (I used Red Anjou)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

First, make the dressing. Mix the vinegar, honey and mustards until smooth. Vigorously whisk the oil into the mixture, then add the herbs. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To make the salad, first halve the pears, then remove the cores and stems. Slice into thick wedges and place in a bowl with 2 teaspoons of dressing. Halve the avocado, then remove the stone and skin. Slice into similar-sized wedges and gently mix with the pear.

Heat the grill and cook the chorizo slices until the edges are slightly crisp. Combine with the pear and avocado and gently toss, adding dressing as required. Divide the salad between 4 plates and top each with 2 prawns. Drizzle with extra dressing.

Serves 4.

THE POTATO AND BAY-LEAF sauce from this dish makes a wonderful soup on a chilly autumn day.

PORK FILLET AND ROAST PEARS WITH POACHED GARLIC AND POTATO AND BAY-LEAF SAUCE

2 tbsp unsalted butter

12 garlic cloves

Preheat the oven to 180?C. Heat an ovenproof frying pan until quite hot, then add 1 tablespoon of butter and the oil. When the butter is foamy and nut-brown, add the pork. Cook until golden brown – about 3 minutes a side. Season the meat with salt and pepper. Transfer the pan to the oven and continue cooking for another 8 minutes. Remove the meat from the pan, and keep it warm. Wipe the pan clean with kitchen paper and put it back over a low heat. Cut each pear into 6 pieces. Add the remaining butter to the pan, and when it foams, add the pears. Gently cook the pears, turning frequently, until they turn gold and have softened a little. Combine the remaining ingredients in another saucepan. Cook until the potatoes are tender – about 30 minutes. Remove the bay leaves and garlic cloves and set the garlic aside. Transfer the contents of the saucepan to a food processor and blend until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the pears from the pan. Slice the pork fillet into 1cm-thick pieces. Spoon the sauce onto individual plates and top with pork and pears. Garnish with the garlic cloves.

Serves 4.

PEARS “BELLE HELENE” IS a classic French dessert that has stood the test of time. Although it normally consists of a poached pear, chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream, I gild the lily by adding caramel sauce, rolling the pear in crushed pistachios, and serving it with Kapiti’s Lemongrass and Ginger Ice Cream. You could, of course, use vanilla ice cream or whipped cream, instead. The sauces can be made two weeks ahead, and reheated. The pears can be poached up to five days in advance.

PEARS “BELLE HELENE” WITH CARAMEL SAUCE, CHOCOLATE SAUCE AND ICE CREAM

CARAMEL SAUCE

½ cup chopped pistachio nuts

First, make the sauces. For the caramel sauce, put the cream into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Meanwhile, sprinkle half the sugar over the bottom of another saucepan and place over a low heat. Slowly caramelise the sugar, and as it starts to turn a golden colour, add the remaining sugar. Cook until it is deep golden-brown. Carefully stir in the butter and add the cream after it melts. Cook until boiling, then remove from the heat and pour into a heatproof bowl to cool.

For the chocolate sauce, chop the chocolate into small pieces. Put the cream, butter and sugar into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the chocolate, stirring until it melts and the sauce thickens slightly.

For the pears, put the first 5 ingredients into a saucepan and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Stand the pears upright in the syrup, then cover with baking paper. Simmer slowly until tender – the longer it takes, the better the flavour. Allow the pears to cool, then roll them in the nuts. Place a spoonful of chocolate sauce in the centre of 4 plates, then top with a pear. Place a spoonful of caramel sauce and a scoop of ice cream alongside.

Serves 4.