Lauraine Jacobs takes the mystery out of cooking one of the most versatile vegetables.
Photo Elizabeth Clarkson, styling Kate Arbuthnot
It’s probably too late, but I have concerns about the well-intentioned Food Bill the Government is pushing through Parliament. Certainly, we expect our food to be safe, free from contaminants, carefully processed in hygienic surroundings and well labelled so the origins are clear. But most food-buyers are intelligent adults, used to making their own decisions and prepared to take the occasional risk if well-informed.
So, given the opportunity to eat unpasteurised dairy products or buy food at farmers’ markets and roadside stalls or from children on fund-raising missions, we’re happy to do so. As for those compliance costs artisan producers may have to meet when setting out, did any authority stop to think that today’s little food idea from an amateur kitchen could become tomorrow’s huge export-earner if the business was able to get established before needing the expensive equipment and premises the bill would demand?
The joy of my summer is buying food at our local market, directly from the producers. Could these farmers and artisans look me in the eye and smile week after week if there was any likelihood of poisoning me or misrepresenting their goodies? I have been buying my veges daily at a little roadside stall run by Marie Clayden and her father, Les, at Quail Farm near Omaha Beach. My world would be a sadder place if the passing of the Food Bill put an end to their business. Every morning their farm-stand offers heaps of fresh field-grown beans, sweetcorn, ripe tomatoes, beetroot, herbs, home-produced preserves made by Marie’s mother, three varieties of potato, capsicums, courgettes and, my favourite, shiny purple aubergines. Ah, aubergines! I watch them growing as I coast down the farm driveway. The plants have beautiful purple stalks and dark bushy leaves, and the fruity globes shine in the sun as they ripen.
Sadly, aubergines, one of the most versatile vegetables, remain a mystery to many cooks, despite being prized the world over. Originating in Asia, aubergines (eggplants, melanzane or brinjal, depending on where you live) come in many shapes, sizes and colours, but my favourites are the large purple egg-shaped variety and the long thin Japanese eggplants. Whether curried, puréed, stuffed, baked, stewed, grilled or fried, the aubergine welcomes many flavourings and dressings. Recipes often recommend salting the cut slices to draw out any bitterness, but I find that’s unnecessary if the fruit is fresh and sun-ripened. Aubergines are almost sponge-like in their ability to soak up moisture. Silvio di Vincenzo, owner of Mandronova estate in Sicily, taught me to fry aubergines in plenty of good olive oil before using them in dishes like the ones given here. Frying makes the interior soft and mellow, as every aubergine should be. Aubergines are perfect for the barbecue. Alternatively, this recipe can be cooked in a ridged grill pan on the stove top.
CHARGRILLED AUGERGINE SLICES
- 2 large aubergines, cut lengthways into
- 3cm slices
- 1 tsp salt
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 2 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
- juice of ½ lemon
- 2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
Place the aubergine slices on paper towels and sprinkle with the salt. Prepare the marinade by whisking together the oil, soy sauce, cumin, thyme, lemon juice and pepper. Heat a barbecue grill until hot. Wipe excess moisture from the aubergine slices, then brush both sides with marinade. Place the slices on the hot grill and reduce the heat a little. Cook until tender, turning occasionally. Serve with dollops of thick unsweetened yoghurt. Serves 6 as a side dish or entrée. Wine match: gewürztraminer.
I have always been a huge fan of the dahi puri street-style starter at Satya South Indian restaurant in Auckland. It inspired me to make a version at home, which I served at a recent drinks party. They were a huge hit, but as the poppadoms quickly soften once the topping is applied, don’t assemble them until the last minute.
SPICY AUBERGINE AND POPPADOM SNACKS
- 6 poppadoms
- 8 tbsp light vegetable oil
- 6 thin Asian aubergines
- 2 tbsp mild curry powder or vegetable
- masala spice mix
- salt
- 6 tbsp Whangaripo buffalo yoghurt or
- creamy cow yoghurt
- 3 tbsp mango chutney
- small bunch of Asian-style herbs (mint,
- coriander, vietnamese mint, basil)
Using a sharp knife, cut the poppadoms into quarters. Heat 6 tablespoons of the oil in a heavy frying pan. When it’s hot, put 4 pieces at a time into the oil, turning so they blister and puff up (about 30 seconds). Drain on paper towels, then repeat the process so you have 24 pieces. When cold, store them in an airtight container. Cut each aubergine into 4 slices and dust with the curry spice and salt. Add the remaining oil to the pan (you may need a little more) and gently fry the aubergine pieces on each side over a low heat until golden and tender – about 4-5 minutes. Keep aside until needed. To assemble, place a piece of aubergine on each poppadom triangle. Top with a teaspoonful of yoghurt, then drizzle a little mango chutney on the yoghurt. Finally, add the sliced herbs and serve immediately. Makes 24. Wine match: riesling or spicy gewürztraminer.
BAKED AUBERGINE PASTA WITH THREE CHEESES
- 1 cup short dried pasta shapes
- 6 tbsp olive oil
- 3 medium aubergines, sliced
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- 150g ricotta cheese
- 1 litre light tomato sauce (Italian passata
- sauce)
- 150g fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced
- ½ cup basil leaves
- salt and pepper to taste
- 50g parmesan cheese
Heat a saucepan of salted water to boiling point, then add the pasta and simmer until al dente – 12-15 minutes, depending on the quality of your pasta. Drain well and toss with a teaspoon of olive oil to stop the pasta sticking together. Heat the oil in a heavy frying pan and gently fry the aubergine slices until golden and soft. When the aubergine is almost cooked, add the garlic and gently cook for a minute or two. Pour about 3 tablespoons of the tomato sauce into a medium-sized baking dish. Use half the aubergine slices and half the pasta to cover the base of the dish. Spread with the ricotta, then top with the remaining pasta and aubergine. Cover with mozzarella and torn basil leaves. Pour over the remaining tomato sauce, and season with salt and pepper. Grate the parmesan over the top. Preheat the oven to 180°C and bake the pasta for 30-40 minutes until the cheese has turned golden. Serves 6. Wine match: pinot gris.