Who’s got the crème?

When it comes to making desserts, my thoughts turn to custard.

As much as I like the words “English custard”, I think “crème anglaise” sounds much nicer. Crème anglaise consists of three key ingredients – milk or cream, eggs and sugar – and is the base for many desserts, from sauces, crème caramels and tarts to ice-creams and brûlées.

Crème brûlée translates to “burnt cream”, which sounds rather intriguing. The first time I put this dish on a restaurant menu it was a disaster. Our guests thought brûlée meant one thing whereas I thought it was another. My arrogance prevailed until, after nearly two years of having brûlées sent back to the kitchen because they were either too set or too sloppy, or had been baked when they should have been set overnight or – worse still – set with gelatine, I took the dish off the menu.

If you look at brûlée recipes, you’ll realise that there are spectacularly differing weights and methods for the same three ingredients. No wonder it’s confusing as to what brûlée really is.

Don’t be intimidated by the thought of making one, though. Keep the heat low, stir continuously and watch closely for the custard to thicken and take on a glossy appearance. Do not allow the eggs to scramble or curdle during cooking.

This is the definitive recipe. The orange and cardamom can be replaced with lime, vanilla or whatever flavouring you prefer.

ORANGE AND CARDAMOM BRÛLÉE

600ml cream

of the custards

Preheat the oven to 180?C. Heat the cream with the black seeds from the cardamom pods and the orange zest. Simmer for 3 minutes to allow the flavours to infuse. Remove from the heat and set aside for 20 minutes. Beat together the egg yolks and first measure of caster sugar until pale and creamy. Strain the hot cream and stir it into the yolk mixture. Return the custard to a low heat and stir it continuously with a wooden spoon until it begins to thicken, whisking quickly when it does. This should take about 10-15 minutes.

Once the custard is almost set, remove from the heat and pour it into the 4 ramekins. Stand the ramekins in a baking dish with enough water to come halfway up the sides. Put the dish into the oven and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the ramekins from the oven and refrigerate for 1 hour at least, before serving.

Divide the second measure of sugar and sprinkle evenly over the top of each custard, then spray with a little water. Melt the sugar under a grill until it has caramelised to a rich golden brown. Alternatively, use a kitchen blowtorch.

Serves 4.

YOU KNOW WHEN YOU have eaten a great crème caramel – angels sing. Take care not to overcook them in the oven, or they will have a boiled appearance when turned out.

SAFFRON CRÈME CARAMEL

CARAMEL

4 egg yolks

To make the crème caramel, first reheat the oven to 165?C. Put the sugar and water into a small saucepan and bring to a simmer and cook until it is a deep amber colour. Remove the caramel from the heat. Pour some of the caramel into the bottom of each cup or ramekin. This can be done two days in advance.

To make the custard, put the milk, saffron and sugar into a saucepan and bring to a lazy simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Whisk the eggs and egg yolks together in a bowl. Continue whisking while you pour in the warm milk. Strain the cream mixture into a pouring jug. Ideally, you should refrigerate the mixture overnight to allow the flavours to develop.

Pour the mixture into the prepared moulds and stand them in a deep roasting dish. Half fill the dish with warm water. Put the dish into the oven and bake for at least 30 minutes. The tops should barely tremble when gently shaken. Remove them from the oven and refrigerate for at least 24 hours. To serve, run a knife around the top edge of the mould and loosen the custard with the tips of your fingers. Invert onto a serving plate. I like to remove the caramel left behind in the mould and break it up and serve it alongside the crème caramel.

Serves 4.

BAVAROIS IS ALSO KNOWN AS Bavarian cream. Given that it is a classic French dessert, I do not know why it is called Bavarian. You can substitute the espresso for chocolate if you wish, adding 350g dark chocolate to the milk.

COFFEE AND ANISE BAVAROIS

3 tsp gelatine powder

300ml cream

Dissolve the gelatine in a little hot water. Heat the milk with the coffee and star anise. In a bowl whisk together the egg yolks and sugar, then pour in the hot milk. Return the mixture to the pan, place over a gentle heat and cook until thickened like custard.

Stir in the gelatine. Pass the mixture through a sieve into a chilled bowl. Refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until the mixture starts to set – approximately 10 minutes.

Lightly whip the cream and carefully but quickly fold it into the coffee cream. Pour into individual ramekins and refrigerate for 2 hours before serving with some whipped cream or a salad of fresh orange segments on the side.

Serves 6.