Yum, yum cha

The Chinese banquet version of a European brunch takes the decision-making out of a weekend meal.

Some Saturday mornings never quite go as planned. With the best intentions, I attempt to rise early and get my day under way, but usually it’s without much success. I need to eat something that is uncomplicated and textural yet easy before I can begin to think properly – something that requires little decision-making.

Yum cha is a good place to start. This Chinese banquet version of a European brunch has much to offer. Some dishes will be familiar – the spring rolls, the steamed barbecue pork buns and pot-stickers (so-called because they are first pan-fried, then steamed in the same pan), the sticky rice and velvety-smooth congees – whereas others have a certain shock value. Lifting the lid on a bamboo basket to see a pile of steaming red chicken feet or a jumbled salad of pigs’ ears will bring anyone out of their Saturday morning stupor.

I like the sensibility, the pots of steaming jasmine tea and the flow of yum ­cha dishes, from the lighter steamed siu mai and dim sum dumplings that are traditionally served first to the heavier fried food. To finish are those perfectly formed delicate pastries, filled with a rich custard made with eggs and cream. They are so good that they are usually the first item I take from the buffet trolley as it is wheeled past me, although I set them to one side until I’ve eaten my savoury dishes. Just how many I choose, though, is the first real decision of the day.

Pork and Prawn Dumplings with Black Vinegar Dipping Sauce

200g minced pork

16 wonton skins

Put the pork mince into the bowl of a food mixer with a beater attachment, then work it until the meat becomes slightly elastic. Finely chop the prawns. Peel and finely chop the ginger, then use the flat side of the blade to crush it to a pulp. Chop the garlic, spring onions and coriander. Core and seed the chilli, then chop. Add the chopped herbs, chilli, soy and fish sauce to the meat. Sit a wonton skin into an egg cup and lightly brush the edges with water. Place 2 teaspoons of filling in the centre, then pleat the edges around the filling. Pack the filling down and pat the base of the dumpling flat against the palm of your hand. Flatten the top with the edge of a knife, then repeat the whole process with the remaining wonton skins. Place the dumplings in a steamer basket and steam for 8 minutes. Carefully remove from the steamer and serve with the dipping sauce.

Black vinegar dipping sauce

1 small red chilli

1 tbsp sugar

Cut the chilli in half, remove and discard the stem and seeds, then chop finely. Peel and grate the ginger. Bring the vinegar, fish sauce and sugar to the boil in a saucepan. Add the ginger and chilli and simmer for 2 minutes. Leave to cool.

Enough for 4.

Crisp-Fried Fish Fillets,

Coriander Salad

330ml can coconut cream

2 tbsp chilli jam

Bring the coconut cream to the boil in a small saucepan, then reduce the heat and simmer until it looks like thick cream. Remove from the heat and set aside. Heat the oil in a deep saucepan. Dip the fish fillets into the egg whites, then into the rice flour. Lightly shake the fillets to dust off any excess flour. Carefully lower the fish into the oil and fry until crisp and golden. Drain on paper towels. Seed the cucumber, then slice diagonally. Place the slices in a bowl with the coriander and mint. Divide the fish between 2 serving plates, then top with the reduced coconut cream and the chilli jam. Place the salad next to the fish and serve.

Serves 2.

Chilli Jam

1 bunch of coriander, including the root

2 tbsp fish sauce

Roughly chop the coriander leaves, then place in the bowl of a food processor with the washed root and salt. Smash the garlic cloves with the side of a wide-bladed knife, then seed and chop the chillies. Add both ingredients to the coriander and process to make a smooth paste. Add the sugar, lime juice and fish sauce, then tip all the ingredients into a small saucepan and bring almost to the boil to dissolve the sugar. Remove the saucepan from the heat and cool for about an hour before using.

Makes about 1 cup.

Egg Custard Tarts

Pastry

200g unsalted butter

a pinch of salt

Filling

300ml milk

3 tbsp sugar

To make the pastry, cut the butter into chunks and put into a food mixer with a beater attachment. Add the icing sugar and beat until pale and creamy. Mix in the egg yolks. Sift the flour and salt, then slowly add to the mixture, combining until the pastry forms a ball. Knead for a few minutes until smooth, then wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

Meanwhile, make the filling. Put the milk, cream, cinnamon, star anise and nutmeg into a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and leave for 20 minutes to allow the flavours to infuse.

In a bowl, whisk the eggs, yolks and sugar until pale. Gradually strain the egg mixture into the milk mixture, gently whisking as you go, trying to avoid making too many air bubbles. If necessary, use a piece of absorbent kitchen paper to remove them.

Preheat the oven to 160ºC. Lightly butter a muffin tin. Knead the pastry on a floured board to soften it. Shape into a sausage and divide into 15 even pieces. Roll each piece into a 2mm-thick circle, then press each circle into the muffin tin. Trim the edges, then cover each tart case with greaseproof paper and fill with rice or baking weights.

Place a baking tray in the oven. Put the muffin tin on the hot tray and bake for 12 minutes or until the pastry is a light biscuit colour. Remove the paper and rice and cook for another 2 minutes, then remove from the oven.

Fill the tart cases with filling, then bake for 10 minutes or until the filling has just set. The tarts are extremely delicate when hot, so allow them to cool a little before removing from the tin. Eat while still warm.

Makes 15 small tarts.