Somaliland: Nowhere land

By Charles Anderson, Glen Johnson In Travel

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12th July, 2012
The guard spoke out of the place where his front tooth used to be. He sat in the passenger seat of an aged Toyota stationwagon with a muddied rifle leaning against his knee. A former liberation soldier, he clapped his hands to the blaring sound of Somali rap music as we sped through the desert east of Hargeisa, the administrative hub of Somaliland: a place that doesn’t really exist. He turned around to face us and pointed out the window. “Tank, tank,” he said. In a place like this, the natural reaction was mild panic. But just off the road was something that gave clarity to his comment. ...

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