At least half the eligible wines and the majority of the prestigious labels are missing.
Judges at the Air NZ Wine Awards, photo Alexandra Lowson
The Air New Zealand Wine Awards has reached a major milestone – 25 years since the airline began sponsoring the industry-run show previously known as the National Wine Competition. After the judges’ careful scrutiny of 1489 entries, do the 2011 show’s results offer a comprehensive guide to our greatest wines?
The short answer is no. But the judges can only assess what is in front of them – and in every show in the country, at least half of the eligible wines and the majority of the prestigious labels are missing. Take pinot noir, which won 20% of the top awards – more than any other variety. You will search the pinot noir medal list in vain for such big names as Ata Rangi, Dry River, Pegasus Bay, Fromm, Neudorf and Felton Road.
Cloudy Bay, Te Mata, Stonyridge and Kumeu River are also missing from the medal lists. Some elite producers say they are trying to make great wines by world standards, rather than benchmarking themselves against other New Zealand wines. Others say they focus their efforts on making and promoting wine well, but find competition results too unpredictable to include in their marketing mix.
However, the Air New Zealand Wine Awards 2011 does offer valuable signposts to high-achieving newcomers and a host of good buys. Steve Smith, the chairman of judges, who recalled recently he “couldn’t drink wine for five years after leaving school, following a bad experience with Marque Vue”, this year encouraged the panellists to celebrate “less powerful, more serious wines, showing elegance, restraint and complexity”.
The show’s results underlined yet again the proven, happy matches between individual regions and grape varieties. Marlborough dominated the sauvignon blanc, riesling and pinot gris classes; Hawke’s Bay stood out with chardonnay, syrah, merlot and cabernet sauvignon; and Central Otago scooped over half the pinot noir golds.
Which of the big companies – as defined by New Zealand Winegrowers – performed best? Of the nine producers, Villa Maria stood out with a rich haul of 16 gold medals (of which 15 are of “limited” availability). Then followed Mud House and Saint Clair with three each, and Pernod Ricard NZ (formerly Montana) and Treasury Wine Estates (Matua) with two each. The country’s second-largest producer, Constellation NZ (with such key brands as Nobilo, Selaks and Kim Crawford), and Delegat’s/Oyster Bay, Wither Hills and Yealands entered without enjoying gold medal success.
The most important of the 83 gold medals were the 12 awarded in the “open” category, where 2500 cases must be available for purchase now – enough for widespread national distribution. Most (54) of the gold medal winners were entered in a “limited” category, for which 250 cases must be on sale. For the 17 gold medal wines in an “exhibition” category, the minimum drops to just 50 cases.
Mud House, based at Waipara, stood out in the open category by scoring gold medals for its generous, peachy, slightly sweet Mud House South Island Pinot Gris 2010 ($19) and full-flavoured, finely textured and savoury Mud House Central Otago Pinot Noir 2010 ($25).
Other easy-to-find gold medal whites in the open category include the punchy and limey Dashwood Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($20); the pure, incisive Lake Chalice Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($21); Lawson’s Dry Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($20), which shows greater complexity than most; the vibrant, tangy Maven Premier Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($19); the lively, grassy Te Mania Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2011 ($19); and the refined lychee-, pear- and spice-flavoured Stanley Estates Awatere Valley Marlborough Pinot Gris 2011 ($23).
Other widely available reds include the rich, supple Pencarrow Martinborough Pinot Noir 2010 ($29); the impressively powerful, concentrated Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir 2010 ($40); the unexpectedly dense, firm Stoneleigh Marlborough Merlot 2010 ($26); and the deliciously brambly, spicy Villa Maria Cellar Selection Hawke’s Bay Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($25). Hunter’s Marlborough Riesling 2008 ($16.90) is the cheapest gold medal winner, but move fast – stocks are low.
WINE OF THE WEEK
Jackson Estate Shelter Belt Marlborough Chardonnay 2010 (**** $23). Citrusy, slightly biscuity and creamy, with excellent depth, complexity and harmony.
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