Centrally cool

By Michael Cooper In Wine

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22nd January, 2011
Think Hawke's Bay wine ... think elegant merlot and cabernet sauvignon-based reds, in the classic Bordeaux mould; sturdy, ripe chardonnays; and (the latest discovery) floral, plummy, spicy syrahs. But south of the Heretaunga Plains, where most of the region's vineyards are clustered, in the elevated terrain of Central Hawke's Bay, a strikingly different style of Hawke's Bay wine is emerging. Distinctly cool-climate wines, woven with racy acidity, flow from the limestone hills and gravelly flats near Waipawa and Waipukurau. The first vines at Takapau were planted by Malcolm Johansen ...

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